The unusual Saint-Serge de Radonège church in Buttes-Chaumont: A hidden Parisian treasure

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Published by My de Sortiraparis · Photos by My de Sortiraparis · Published on October 9, 2023 at 10:10 p.m.
In the heart of Paris's Buttes-Chaumont district lies the unusual Saint-Serge de Radonège church. Not visible from the street, in the 19th arrondissement, this church is an architectural nugget waiting to be discovered.

The Saint-Serge de Radonège church, located in the Buttes-Chaumont district, is one of those unusual surprises that Paris has in store for us. It's located at 93 rue de Crimée, and to find it, you have to wander along a flowery path before coming upon this chalet-like edifice, nestled in a green setting.

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Originally a 19th-century Protestant parish church, it was abandoned in 1918. It was acquired by the Orthodox Church on the feast of Saint Sergius. A wood-panelled façade adorned with a colorful porch invites visitors to enter. The interior, decorated by the talented Russian painter Dimitri Semionovitch Stelletsky, offers a breathtaking spectacle of Russian neo-Gothic elements.

It also boasts :

  • A library containing over 35,000 books in various languages, including Russian, French and Greek.
  • A religious bookshop.
  • TheInstitut de Théologie Orthodoxe Saint-Serge in Paris, the only one of its kind to teach Orthodoxy in French.

But that's not all. As you enter the church, you're immediately struck by the profusion of gilding, ornamentation and color, from the ceiling frescoes to the sculpted pews. The meticulous details, the work of Stelletsky, blend with the church's original elements, creating an unlikely but captivating harmony.

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Stelletsky, described as the "Russian Michelangelo", transformed this initially uncluttered space into an artistic marvel. It's a "fantastic deception", as the church gives the illusion of being made of wood, when in reality it's made of brick. The artist has not hesitated to incorporate the original elements while adding his own masterly touch. Stelletsky's collaboration with the renowned iconographer Princess Lvova gives the church's icons an unrivalled finesse and beauty.

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This hidden treasure is well worth a visit. Sunday, the day of the Office, is the ideal time to visit the church. On other days, you'll only be able to get inside if you find someone willing to let you in. However, the serenity that reigns here gives you the opportunity to appreciate the church's peaceful, timeless setting.

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And speaking of serenity, you should know that even without entering, the church and its garden are a true haven of peace. An association has been formed to restore the neglected garden of the Saint-Serge Orthodox Church, opening its doors to all, regardless of their Orthodox faith. This little oasis, located in the 19th arrondissement, is an ideal spot to relax on one of the benches. The garden, a mix of flowers and aromatic plants, blends the use of shady and semi-shady spaces, notably at the foot of trees, in the undergrowth and at the foot of walls.

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All in all, it's a lovely discovery to make. It's an opportunity to plunge into another era and discover a place of worship with a thousand and one wonders. And what's more,after this enriching discovery, you can relax in the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, just a stone's throw away.

Practical information

Location

93 Rue de Crimée
75019 Paris 19

Route planner

Prices
Free

Recommended age
For all

Official website
saint-serge.fr

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