Emotions and delicacy on the plates of the Etude Michelin-starred restaurant

Head to the 16th arrondissement of Paris for a delicate and touching culinary journey. All you need to do is pass through theEtude door.

At the helm of this island far from the hustle and bustle of the city, chef Keisuke Yamagishi welcomes you in a very refined atmosphere, imagined by interior designer Ito Masaru.

In the kitchen, the Japanese chef has made the judicious choice of working only with committed producers, whom he trusts wholeheartedly. Challans duck from Maison Burgaud, poulard from Culoiseau, line-caught peaches from Brittany, or vegetables from market gardeners Joël Thiebault, Thierry Rian and Anna Shoji... Unrivalled local produce.

On the plate, the products reveal themselves, transformed with great finesse by the chef's fingers and according to his whims. A true culinary melody, and not without reason: Keisuke Yamagishi is a fervent admirer of Chopin, to the point of naming his restaurant and tasting menus after the composer's works.

Gourmets can choose from several menus: the Symphonie menu, a vegetal suite in five variations, featuring seasonal vegetables, fruit, flowers and herbs, enhanced by virgin almond, walnut, hazelnut and pistachio oils.

The Ballade menu for lunch and the Prélude and Nocturne menus for dinner open up to the land and sea, always demonstrating great sensitivity and (false) simplicity in pairings and flavors.

We were lucky enough to discover this fine, natural French cuisine on a chilly October evening. Presented in elegant porcelain crockery, these dishes touched, moved and conquered us.

Our discovery of Keisuke Yamagishi 's cuisine began with a declension of carrots, in the form of crispy caraway chips and sponge tops. A light appetizer in both texture and taste.

Thespider c rab then takes its place at our table, accompanied by a saffron carrot cream, a grapefruit siphon and a cocoa crumble to add a touch of bitterness to this dish of a thousand flavors in perfect harmony.

We then continue with a dish inspired by the inescapable pot-au-feu, the French dish par excellence for long winter evenings. But here, it's all about delicacy: the cauliflower comes in thin, crisp strips, the zucchini takes on surprising shapes, inspired by tagliatelle, and the small leeks are braised, adding real depth to the dish.

The kumquat and lemongrass add refreshment, while the prime rib broth covers and underscores the harmony.

Porcini mushrooms, now in season, are part of the dance. It's plump, to our great delight, and is accompanied by a black garlic sauce, shallots, banana mint for freshness, potato chips to bring a little crunch to the dish, and a plum. One of our favorite dishes, so rich in harmony is its accuracy.

After the spider, we return to the water with cod, pearly to the core, and worked with turnip cream, shiso-kumquat cream and oxalis clover. A great dish, warm, generous, round in the mouth at first thanks to the turnip. But that's without counting on the shiso, which wakes things up.

We then discover the continuation of the pot-au-feu begun a few dishes earlier: the rib of beef walnut. Beet and oyster leaves accompany this choice Simmental beef, matured for a month, which is happily dipped in a red wine reduced sauce. It warms the body and the heart.

Then it's on to the desserts, executed by pastry chef Mika Okazawa. We start with a rum-raisin mousse accompanied by a charcoal cat's tongue. This is followed by a graphic, airy dessert of crème de cassis, violet mousse and Madagascar chocolate.

Finally, we finish with the mignardises, petit chou à l'orange, macaron à la violette and chocolate, promising to return soon to commune once again with this great chef, who manages so well to convey his gentleness and delicacy .

Emotions and delicacy on the plates of the Etude Michelin-starred restaurant

Calendar

_