Red Katz, a traditional Chinese restaurant in a fabulous retro setting

Right in the heart of the Sentier, a new Chinese restaurant with a decor straight out of a Wong Kar-wai film. Red Katz, as it's known - a reference to the manga Cat's Eyes, for those in the know - is proving to be one of the most vibrant addresses of the new culinary season.

Behind this Chinese table with its striking vermilion frontage are three Franco-Chinese friends, all of whom have been immersed in Chinese cuisine since childhood - their parents were all restaurateurs. Claire Huang, Hélène Ding and Hélène Huang were inspired to create their own place where they could pay homage to the traditional cuisine of their childhood... without casting aspersions on a certain Western modernity.

With its retro decor spread over three levels, Red Katz has all the makings of aglamorous address. Designed by the Louis Morgan studio, the decor blends fabrics, tapestries, fine woods, marble and mirrors in an overflow of luxury and 1930s elegance. Solid wood central bar designed by painter Solange, floral banquettes, water-green onyx marble tables, not forgetting the marvellous mosaic covering the first floor and this assembly of handmade lampshades that seem to fly under the high glass roof, echoing ancient Chinese houses... All in good taste.

The same is true of the basement, which holds many surprises: three discreetly charming rooms for private use. A table d'hôtes tucked away behind a heavy curtain, a second room clad entirely in mirrors, and a third, even more hidden, that can be revealed by pushing mirrors, and which can seat no less than 14 guests around its heavy central red marble table.

Once you've taken in the sights and sounds of the place, it's time to take a look at the menu. It features a mix of traditional dishes from different regions of China, and modernized dishes adapted to Western palates. All are the work of three chefs in the kitchen: one for dim sum, one for wok and one for rotisserie.

All excel in their mission. The dim sum are particularly tasty, and the duo box (38€ for 12 pieces) or the treasure box (68€ for 24 pieces) are ideal options for sampling these hand-crafted marvels: Hakao shrimp (14€ for 4 pieces) or vegetarian (12€ for 4 pieces) and Siu Mai (14€ for 4 pieces) with pork and shrimp stuffing, great classics of Cantonese cuisine, as well as Xiaolongbao with pork (18€ for 6 pieces) or chicken (18€ for 6 pieces), filled with a sapid broth.

Other traditional dishes that should win your favor include Lazi chicken (27€), fried then sautéed with Sichuan spices and chiles ; Black Tiger shrimp (28€) served on a bed of garlic breadcrumbs; Chao Mian stir-fried noodles (14€), vegetarian, but also and above all: eggplant in Yuxiang sauce (22€), absolutely stunningly melting.

Our only regret was not being able to try the Peking duck, offered here in half (€58) or whole (€120) versions, prepared and served in the finest style. Meticulously lacquered, basted in a broth of red vinegar, maltose sugar and a blend of spices, stuffed with green onions, apple, garlic, star anise, Cassia cinnamon and bay leaves, it takes no less than two days to prepare, before being baked to crisp the skin and tenderize the flesh.

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Presented in two courses - the first with only the crunchy skin, which is rolled into a patty; the second with sautéed rice - you'll have to ask to reserve it in advance to be sure of getting your hands on it. A must-try from Red Katz that we'll be glad to try again.

For lunch, the restaurant offers an affordable €28 starter/main course or main course/dessert menu. Why go without?