It's been two years since young chef Julien Simonnet, 27, opened his first restaurant, Le Galopin, on the charming Place Sainte Marthe, surrounded by the little troquets where young people flock and cheap beer flows every weekend.
Having worked in the bistronomic kitchens of Ze Kitchen Galerie, Porte 12 and Goguette, as well as at Michelin-starred addresses in Japan, Julien Simmonet has imagined this address in his own image: a modern bistro with a raw look - exposed bricks, white tiles, colorful posters - but which doesn't say no to French tradition.
At lunchtime on weekdays, Le Galopin serves unbridled bistro cuisine that evolves according to the chef's whims and the arrival of fine seasonal produce, most of which is sourced locally. In the evening, however, the atmosphere changes with a highly gastronomic tasting menu offered at an affordable price - €55 for the 5-course menu for an address that richly deserves a first star.
After a trio ofenchanting amuse-bouches - cherry tomato pickles, raw cream and dehydrated tomato / shallot and bottarga compote on brick pastry / cornbread and Sicilian olive oil - it's time for theperfect egg. Classic in appearance, it's no less explosive and devilishly comforting, accompanied by a mushroom duxelle, yellow beet tartar, creamy potato and mimolette emulsion.
The chef's Japanese inspirations infuse and reveal themselves as the menu progresses. Line-cut lean is paired with an oven-roasted chard leaf, then lacquered with soy , and a fried green bell pepper; beef tenderloin simply roasted in butter is magnified by the presence of an eggplant baked in a robe des champs before being lacquered with soy.
In each dish, the sauce is a key element, worked like a small dish in its own right. The memory of that fish fumet with cocoa and that meat jus with peanut and chocolate highlights will stay with us for a long time.
We delicately rinse the palate with a dashi with roasted sesame oil before moving on to the cheese, a mature Morbier, and then the dessert - so tempting that we forgot to take a photo of it, shame on us! Originality and modernity prevail once again, with this tomato/butter/verbena sorbet, chocolate and buckwheat crumble, Charentais melon, fromage blanc and hazelnut emulsion, cucumber flower.
To accompany this delicate final note, the bonhomie waiter and sommelier brings to the table a glass of French apricot sake, sweet without being syrupy, a lovely discovery. Throughout the meal, our table is treated to a series of carefully thought-out food and wine pairings, all geared towards naturalness and biodynamics.
From the open kitchen, you can watch what's going on behind the stove, waiting and excited to discover what's waiting for you next. An address that's alive and well.
Location
Le Galopin - permanently closed
34 Rue Sainte-Marthe
75010 Paris 10
Access
Belleville or Colonel Fabien
Prices
Menu dégustation au dîner: €55
Menu dégustation avec accords mets et vins: €90
Official website
le-galopin.paris
