Like a leap back in time, Le Cornichon has set up shop in the 11th arrondissement, nestled in a vintage décor that smacks of the 70s. A pinball machine sits discreetly at the end of the zinc, chromed skai chairs, daily newspapers linked by a wooden pole, scratch-off games (in moderation) and hard-boiled eggs on the counter...
You'd almost expect Patrick Dewaere to turn up any minute and ask for a white boy to throw behind his tie.
Bertrand Chauveau and Paul Henri, the two men behind the restaurant - the former trained at Ferrandi, then in the kitchens of J-F Piège and David Toutain, before heading up the Garance kitchen - were fascinated by old country rads when they opened the doors to this neighborhood café-restaurant-bar-tabac.
Open non-stop from morning (for coffee and croissants) to dinner (for a lively aperitif) and lunch(affordable, more on that later), Le Cornichon is the place to stop at any time of day. It's true that the warm atmosphere and quick, smiling service, provided by a young, friendly team, invite you to take an extended break.
Whether indoors to enjoy the retro soundtrack, or out on the large sunny terrace, the cuisine is as simple as the decor... but not simplistic! Under the guidance of chef Bertrand Chauveau, Le Cornichon offers classic yet well-executed dishes, à la carte but also (and it's a pleasure to rediscover this French tradition) on the weekly menu.
And it's as effective as it is affordable: count €19 for a weekly starter/main course or main course/dessert, €22 for a weekly starter/main course/dessert and €25 for a weekly Saturday menu, with a vegetarian alternative for those concerned every day.
On our visit, a cucumber with a lightly lemony cream sauce, roast chicken and a generous handful of al dente green beans, and a crème renversée that takes us back to childhood. Ordinary, of course, but with a twist that reflects real culinary know-how and a real desire to please, and, above all, unbeatable value for money in the neighborhood.
You'll leave with a lighter wallet, a full belly, and the desire to come back for lunch or dinner to spend some quality time alone, listening to the local gossip at the bar, or with friends for a low-cost chat!
Location
Le Cornichon
2 Rue des Goncourt
75011 Paris 11
Official website
www.lecornichon.paris