Paris is home to many medieval relics, but so are the Yvelines! The town of Houdan is a fine example, less than an hour from the capital, from the Gare Montparnasse. Just a Navigo ride away, this medieval town and its many remains are still well-preserved and offer a lovely stroll through town, nature and French history. Although traces of ancient times can be found in Houdan, most of the monuments were built in the Middle Ages.
In addition, the Houdan region began to be populated from the 5th century onwards, becoming a major settlement by the year 1000. The shape of the town and its elevation above the surrounding countryside gave it a strategic position, used by the lords of Montfort-l'Amaury, another town in the Yvelines region. At war with the King of England, Lord Amaury III erected a stone keep and fortified walls. From then on, Houdan became an important town and a renowned trading center. In the 16th century, the town's fortifications were extended, and it is these that can still be admired today.
During the French Revolution, the Houdan region became the capital's granary, and one of the largest wheat markets in the Ile-de-France region was held here.
If you're arriving in Houdan by car, via the N12, you can start your stroll at the town hall and the Houdan church, but if you're coming by train, it's a good idea to start at the Tour Guinant and the hospital. Numerous little lanes and secret passageways allow you to get to certain places more quickly, and to discover some surprising places. Allow two hours for your visit. We're off!
The Houdan town hall is housed in a former 17th-century nobleman's residence.
Famous for its unique Cliquot organs dating back to 1734, the church, listed as a historic monument since 1840, is currently undergoing major renovations but remains open. It conceals a period fresco depicting the Houdan pilgrimage to Montserrat, dating back to 1582. An astonishing and very rare inscription on the lintel of the portal dates from the French Revolution:"the French people recognize the existence of the supreme being and the immortality of the soul". Built in the 13th century, it was rebuilt until 1777, which explains the originality of its architecture.
This first inn, located at 64 rue de Paris, bears witness to Houdan's past as a stopover town. Its wooden facades date from the 17th and 18th centuries. This particular one is decorated with fleurs-de-lis, a reminder of Louis XVI's visit to the town on June 21, 1786.
The Auberge de l'Ecu de France was Houdan's oldest and most important inn, according to records dating back to 1569. The hostellerie comprised buildings 37, 39 and 41 rue de Paris. Sculptures depicting ears of wheat and bunches of grapes on the façade were intended to entice travelers to stop by.
Located on rue des Remparts, the Tour is particularly well preserved and blends into the urban landscape, close to the houses. It is more centrally located than the other two towers.
At 65 rue de Paris, you'll find one of the town's oldest inns, whose name can be traced back to plans dating from 1692. First an inn in the Middle Ages, then the town's administrative center, it also served as lodgings for gendarmes and a tax office. The exterior features the town's coat of arms, a reminder of Houdan's dual membership of the Kingdom of France and the Duchy of Brittany. Renovated in 2018, the courtyard is still accessible to the public, with authentic wooden passageways. It also houses a secret passageway, created to get to the rue des Fossés more easily.
This inn, at 94 rue de Paris, is marked by the Seznec affair, for which it is famous. On May 25, 1923, Guillaume Seznec and Pierre Quemeneur were on their way to Paris and came here to eat, their car broken down. But as night fell, Quemeneur made a phone call and took the train at almost 10pm. Seznec was never seen again, and his friend was charged with murder and forgery, even though he had always maintained his innocence.
It's the highlight of the visit! Built between 1125 and 1132 during the reign of Amaury III, the keep was used to watch out for enemies and defend the town. Comprising a tower 15m in diameter and 25m high, it has 4 turrets. In the 16th century, the monument was used as a prison, and executions took place at the foot of the tower. In 1880, a first water reservoir was installed, replaced in the 1970s by a second. After a lengthy renovation, it is now open to visitors on Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and one Sunday a month, with exhibitions for younger visitors and a panoramic view of the city from the top. Full price: 5 euros; children aged 6-18: 3 euros.
Between the 19th and 20th centuries, this strikingly colored building housed a factory producing the famous Boldoflorine herbal tea. Pierre Fouché created his own spirits here, including Guignolet Houdanais, cider and absinthe. The latter was banned in 1915, and production switched to pharmaceuticals and herbal teas. Boldoflorine was a major commercial success, broadcast on the radio, but production ceased in 1999. The former factory is now home to housing and offices, in the original building between rue du Mont-Rôti and Passage de la Boldo.
They can be seen on the Chemin de la Croix aux Pèlerins, surrounded by the surrounding walls. Their construction was authorized by François 1er in the 16th century, as the old fortifications were becoming too narrow.
This cross was erected in tribute to the first pilgrims to set off from Houdan for Montserrat in 1582. This pilgrimage led from the medieval town to Spain, in the center of Catalonia, where since the Middle Ages, a wooden statue of the Black Madonna has attracted pilgrims. The site, sheltered by the only two trees in the vicinity, offers a lovely view and another vantage point over the medieval town.
Today, the town of Houdan has no shortage of activities, with the presence of a contemporary art center, La Tannerie, numerous eclectic shops and an annual festival, the Foire Saint-Matthieu, which takes place on the last weekend of September.
So, shall we take a little tour of the Yvelines?
Dates and Opening Time
Starts November 8, 2024
Location
Houdan
houdan
78550 Houdan
Average duration
2 h
