Mala workshop: Sichuan delicacies in the heart of the 9th district

Atelier Mala is the place to be for Chinese food in Paris. And not just any Chinese: specialties from Sichuan, the southwestern Chinese province renowned for its spicy cuisine. We went to try it, and it's exquisite and spicy as can be. Go to rue Notre Dame de Lorette, in the 9th arrondissement, between Saint-Georges and Pigalle.

It's Thursday evening, the restaurant is fully booked and buzzing with activity. The atmosphere is warm, with large wooden tables, a pretty bar at the back and half-fresco, half-street-art paintings on the walls.

Sichuan is famous for its pepper, but there are also chillies, "MA" and "LA", the basic ingredients of this fragrant, spicy cuisine, known as one of the jewels of Chinese gastronomy.

We start by sharing starters, all very good, with a special mention for the Mala ravioli stuffed with pork and ginger, and a very successful Yiu Chai (Pak Choi marinated in garlic and ginger).

When we order our dishes, Gaspard gives us a choice of 3 spice strengths: mild, medium or hot. For spice lovers with moderately sensitive palates, we recommend medium for pasta and mild for soups. The Ran Mian (ground pork noodles seasoned with Sihuan pepper and peanuts) is a delight, as is the Suan Cai Mi Xian Boeuf (rice noodle soup with beef and pickled Chinese cabbage), one of the house classics.

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And of course Atelier Mala also offers delicious dishes for veggies. In fact, the whole menu is mouth-watering yet very affordable, with starters between €4 and €6 and main courses at €11 or €12.

Freshness and authenticity are the watchwords at Atelier Mala. Ewan, one of the 4 partners who lives in Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan, supplies the restaurant directly with local spices. And in the kitchen, wheat noodles and ravioli are homemade, with fresh dough prepared and kneaded before each service.

Atelier Mala began life in a small space on rue La Bruyère, and has since expanded to 56 rue Notre Dame de Lorette. A great success story, driven by the 4 partners: Stanislas, Clément, Ewan and Gaspard.

Come on, let's go to l'Atelier to taste these specialties, it's a guaranteed treat. Watch out for addictive cuisine!