L'écu de France, a gourmet restaurant in a historic setting on the banks of the Marne (94)

While Paris has plenty to delight gourmets with its many restaurants, as you move away from the capital, you'll discover some unique addresses in the Île-de-France region that would be hard to find in the City of Light. One example is l'Écu de France, a charmingly picturesque restaurant in Chennevières-sur-Marne, Val-de-Marne.

The site itself is steeped in history. It's a former coaching inn dating back to 1717. A ceramic tile at the entrance, representing theÎle-de-France region, situates the site and reminds us that we're not very far from the capital. Yet the setting transports us far from the hustle and bustle of Paris, and even gives us the impression of being out of time.

L'Écu de France has that special atmosphere of a house with a strong identity. It has to be said that this restaurant is a family business, run by the Brousse family for four generations, whose adventure began in 1920. Wherever you look, details scattered here and there intrigue and amuse, while contributing to the folklore of the place. A sign hanging from the roof suggests "Think of the belly and spend", as you pass a wishing well and a lucky beard to enter theÉcu de France. We then discover a rustic hall with the look of a cabinet of curiosities, loaded with details and featuring a large fireplace lit during the winter season. It's an approach that helps give this restaurant the character that sets it apart.

Inside, you'll find the traditional spirit of the dining room, where you can take refuge when the sky is grey. But when the weather's fine, it's on the bucolic terrace (open from 20°C) that you can soak up the sunshine from the banks of the Marne. A verdant, soothing setting where you can admire the spectacle of nature, occasionally waving at the canoes and kayaks plying the river.

What we like about l'Écu de France is that it's not an address designed to please everyone, but rather a place full of personality that draws you into its world. With mischief, the restaurant takes us from surprise to surprise and, as if to contrast with its historic setting, l'Écu de France offers a more contemporary gastronomy than one might think at first glance. In fact, this address elevates traditional French cuisine to gastronomic status, with a touch of inventiveness that guarantees a culinary experience unique to the place, thanks to the savoir-faire of chef Francis Akamé.

The menu is 100% homemade, concocted with quality products, and changes four times a year. A starter/main course menu costs €49, a main course/cheese or dessert €45, and the complete starter/main course/dessert package costs €65. Good value for money, considering the setting and the dishes on offer. For families, a children's menu (main course+dessert) is available at 32€. A 5-course tasting menu costs €105 (€160 for a wine and food pairing).

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For starters, we love the duck foie gras confit, accompanied by balsamic peach chutney and pumpkin seed nougatine, a twist that gives us that crunchy, sweet-savory edge, as well as cocoa shavings that play up the bitterness this time. L'Écu de France isn't afraid to take risks, and we appreciate this sense of daring that brings classics up to date without distorting them.

On the main course, we find ourselves between land and sea. On one side, roasted sea bass, accompanied by a creamy risotto generously garnished with seafood and topped with a lemongrass coconut-curry foam. As with all the dishes we tasted, the presentation is beautiful and not just for show. We interpret this dish as a metaphor for the sea: under the foam, the fish, and under the fish, buried shells. The melt-in-your-mouth flesh of the sea bass mingles with the creamy risotto to create a combo of sweetness, while the foam adds a refreshing pep to the mix.

On the other side of the table, we had the filet of lacquered duckling with orange nectar gastrique sauce, textured carrot and seasonal sprouts. While the bar gave us the impression of a symphony in which the various elements share the stage equally, this dish is articulated differently in our eyes: the poultry is the center of attention, and all the flavors that make up the plate are there to highlight it without stealing the show. The quality of the meat, sublimated by its suite, speaks for itself, with its pronounced notes balanced by the sweetness of the carrots, the pep of the sauce and, as an added bonus, a crispy layer that adds depth to the dish.

For dessert, let yourself be tempted by a mille-feuilles with regressive accents. Between the layers of airy puff pastry, a generous vanilla and Tonka bean ganache brings us a tender childhood flavour, in which the two spices are equally palatable. To complete this return to our tenderest years, a hazelnut praline adds an even more gourmet dimension to this iconic French pastry.

So, if you're a Parisian or a visitor looking for a gourmet, green and timeless getaway, l'Écu de France has just the thing for you, not far from the capital. A parking lot is also available for those with vehicles. For those planning to get there by public transport, the restaurant is a 20-minute walk from the La Varenne - Chennevières station (RER A). On your way, you'll discover the bucolic charm of the area, as you walk along the Marne River.