It's a neighborhood known to Parisians, yet few dare venture there. Agreed, it's a little out of the way, but the Batignolles district offers some lovely walks and green spots that give it the feel of a small country village.
First and foremost, there's the Square des Batignolles, where you can stop and stroll between the alleys, under the varied species of trees or along the river and lake. This hilly square was the brainchild of Napoleon III, who wanted to create English-style gardens in Paris after being won over by the idea during a trip to England.
All around the park, discover the Batignolles district. It's like being in a small village, with its little Sainte-Marie des Batignolles church, its little squares, its markets, its flea markets and its many cafés and restaurants. What a gentle way of life! In fact, many artists were inspired by it and took advantage of it. Verlaine spent part of his youth in Les Batignolles, Mallarmé and Zola lived there, as did Barbara and Jacques Brel.
As you stroll around, you're sure to come across the discreet Cité des Fleurs, in the Epinettes district. A private, pedestrian alley (but ask a local to let you in!), lined with middle-class houses and mansions with lush gardens. There's even a school and a church. A veritable village in itself!