Drouant, the mythical home of the Académie Goncourt

In 2018, after more than ten years at the helm of Drouant, chef Antoine Westermann handed over the business to the Gardinier brothers (owners of the double Michelin-starred Le Taillevent) to devote himself body and soul to his own poultry restaurant, Coq Rico, perched on the Butte Montmartre.

A new page was thus turned for Drouant, theParisian institution that had been hosting the decision-making dinners of the members of the prestigious Académie Goncourt since the beginning of the last century - Colette, Jules Renard, Aragon, Jean Giono and Octave Mirbeau all had their place settings there, as well as the annual presentation of the famous literary prize.

With the recovery underway, it was time to dust off the banquettes, menus and image of Drouant. And while the restaurant retains all its old-fashioned elegance and jazzy atmosphere, the menu still offers the great classics of French gastronomy, but, it has to be said, brilliantly brought up to date.

On offer that evening was the Gaillon menu (€46), available for lunch and dinner, with a choice of 2 starters, 2 main courses and 2 desserts of the day, or the institution's permanent offerings, which change with the seasons.

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So, let yourself be tempted by the à la carte dishes, and let's face it, French gastronomy is something to be envied. Starters include three-meat pâté en croûte (19€), with a fine stuffing of pork, poultry and duck; and frog legs (22€) pan-fried in butter and parsley sabayon. Two classic but pleasant starters (although they could have done with a little extra seasoning).

Then it's on to the main courses: vol-au-vent à la financière (36€) with poultry beatillos and crayfish; and fricassee of sweetbreads (37€), syrah juice, mushrooms and ventrèche - served with ultra-fine mashed potatoes - parade across our table. Two generous dishes, two successes.

For desserts, we fall for the baba (16€), citrus fruits and candied kumquat like an arranged rum (which we'd have liked slightly more soaked), and for the mille-feuille (18€), bourbon vanilla and semi-salted butter caramel, with a pleasantly airy puff pastry.

Drouant, the legendary Parisian institution before the Eternal, still manages to renew itself and astonish us!