Au Cœur de la Forêt: the traditional cuisine restaurant nestled in the heart of the Val-d'Oise countryside

If you live in the Val-d'Oise, then you may well be familiar with the Au Cœur de la Forêt restaurant. Run for the past twenty years by Françoise and André Touati, this fine gourmet establishment is located in the heart of the vast and beautiful Montmorency forest. Stretching 6 km from northwest to southeast, the Montmorency state forest is located just 20 km north of Paris. Considered the largest forest in the Val-d'Oise, it welcomes almost 5 million visitors a year, eager to escape the hustle and bustle of the city and enjoy a wide range of green walks on weekdays or weekends.

It's in this idyllic country setting that the Au Cœur de la Forêt restaurant is located, sandwiched between the communes of Montmorency and Saint-Brice-sous-Forêt. To reach this gourmet destination, several options are available, starting with the car (the easiest), although the short forest road (approx. 1 km) is not easy. But once you've arrived, the change of scenery is well worth the detour, and a parking lot awaits guests with vehicles. Another option? Public transport. From Gare du Nord in Paris, simply take the Transilien line H and get off at Enghien-les-Bains station, then board bus 1515 (La Chênée stop). From there, make 12 stops and get off at"La Mare aux Champeaux", then walk another 15 minutes or so to the restaurant.

Once there, you'll be delighted to discover the green, rural setting surrounding the imposing building, itself covered in ivy. The highlight? The lovely terrace, open whenever the weather warms up. Inside, the decor is rustic yet warm and elegant, with beamed ceilings, a large fireplace, old wall lamps, wallpaper covered with hens, and the famous white tablecloths on the tables.

What's on the menu? A seasonal menu, with lovingly-crafted homemade dishes, featuring traditional French cuisine. There are no original or sophisticated creations here, just sure-fire favourites to be enjoyed as a couple, with friends or family. While the menu evolves according to the market and the seasons, it generally offers 4 starters, 4 main courses (including a fish course), the inevitable cheese cart and three desserts, not forgetting sorbets.

Before we get started, let's make way for a duck puff pastry. Generous, greedy and perfectly seasoned, this appetizer already sets the tone for the rest of the meal.

The tasting begins in earnest with succulent, melt-in-the-mouth asparagus from the Landes region, accompanied by a poached farm egg with hazelnuts and crispy grilled country bacon. The whole dish is sprinkled with paprika. A beautiful and delicious starter that is an undeniable tribute to French cuisine.

• To be read
• What to do in Paris and the Île-de-France region this weekend, December 20, 21 and 22, 2024
• Val-d'Oise: nature walks in the vast Montmorency national forest
• What to do in the Val d'Oise? Heritage, places to visit and activities not to be missed

Opposite, it's time for the inevitable assortment of home-made fois gras, with a country terrine, also home-made, and Bellota ham. A classic of the genre, some would say simple, but sure to please the taste buds of carnivores. The foie gras and terrine are accompanied by bread kneaded and baked in the restaurant's own bakery from sourdough and stone-ground spelt flour.

We continue with a succulent monkfish roast, accompanied by fresh peas, a tarragon jus and an incredible celery mousseline. Opposite, we fall for Quercy lamb roasted in a spice crust, also with a celery mousseline purée. A real treat for these two plates, with their masterful cooking and perfectly balanced flavors, made with quality products!

If you choose to skip the cheese, despite its wide selection, you can't resist the call of dessert. On the one hand, we melt for the little praline puffs, oh so tasty, and accompanied by a dairy caramel sauce. As for the second dessert, it's a real favorite: an ultra-cocoa chocolate mousse, with two chocolate meringues and a mango-passion coulis for a fruity, tangy touch. Gourmet and generous, we could have used a second plate!

Convivial, authentic and undeniably atypical with its country feel, the Au Cœur de la Forêt restaurant has been one of Val-d'Oise 's must-visit restaurants for several years now. And it's easy to see why! A word of advice: make sure you book in advance.