Hunting season is upon us, and with it the arrival in Paris's gourmet restaurants of menus that pay special tribute to game. To the delight of lovers of meat with body and character, Bellefeuille, the Michelin-starred restaurant at the Saint James Paris, is getting in on the act, unveiling a hunting menu imagined by newly arrived chef Grégory Garimbay.
An addition to the traditional autumn menu, this menu dedicated to the finest French game meats is only available for a few months. One of the reasons not to miss it, the other being to find, within this menu, a charming and tasty mix of very traditional recipes (such as the hare à la royale, offered here in two ways - that of Antonin Carême, the other of Senator Couteaux - or the stunning Pithiviers de colvert) and more contemporary and therefore more personal creations.
This 5-course menu is served in the hushed decor of Bellefeuille for 320€ per guest, or 440€ with wine and food pairings. Note, in fact, that the menu is more substantial than it appears: in addition to the 5 stages announced, a trio of amuse-bouches gets you in the mood as soon as you arrive, followed by a dish based around the Sparassis mushroom not specified on the menu and which arrives by surprise - and what a surprise!
Similarly, the delicate rosehip dessert is preceded by a refreshing pre-dessert based on grapes. Both are the work of talented young pastry chef Coline Doussin, a former employee of chef Grégory Garimbay'sAuberge Nicolas Flamel.
The rest, with feathers and fur, in pictures.
* * *
Snack blini pastry, creamy chanterelle mushrooms, comté cheese, blackcurrants, fresh herbs
Beef jerky, pastrami spices, reduced beef jus, Kristal caviar
Raw grey shrimps, jellied prawns, spring onion oil, shrimp powder
Sparassis des Vosges roasted in yellow wine, yellow wine and roast juice emulsion, Colonnata bacon veil
Fresh figs, walnuts, walnut condiment, Sparassis potato chips
Red partridge ravioli just snacked, partridge stuffing in different textures
Poached foie gras, porcini mushrooms, mustard shoots, grated horseradish, partridge consommé, Alba white truffle
Semi-cured venison tartar, Colonnata bacon
Spicy mayonnaise, mustard seed pickles, watercress, dried venison back powder
Pithiviers of French game mallard, Landes foie gras, cabbage, abatis stuffing
Beauce Hare à la royale Antonin Carême style
Foiegras, celery purée and candied quince purée
Sénateur-style Beauce hare Knives
Effiloché glossy with royal sauce
Grape pre-dessert
Muscat and Chasselas grapes in sorbet, pink grapes, laurel-infused verjuice and Tasmanian berries
Rosehips in jam, sorbet, warm sauce and whole candied fruits
Vanilla-infused yoghurt, Fontainebleau, lightly toasted meringues
Juniper berry milk emulsion
Warm chestnut glazed brioche topped with roasted chestnut ice cream, chestnut chips
Milk barquette, caramelized milk skin tart base, milk jam, milk mousse and vanilla powder
Quince tatin, raw cream
* * *
Game restaurants in Paris, our best addresses during the hunting season
Hunting season is now open. It's time to discover the restaurants in Paris that serve delicious game dishes. [Read more]
Location
Bellefeuille
5 Pl. du Chancelier Adenauer
75116 Paris 16
Prices
Accords mets et vins: €120
Menu en 5 temps: €320
Official website
www.saint-james-paris.com