Attention fashion and photography lovers - the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris has a new photo exhibition in store that will take you on a journey through time, from November 6, 2024 to January 26, 2025. To coincide with Paris Photo, the museum unveils "La Mode en Modèles. Photographs from the 1920s-1930s". An opportunity to plunge into the history of pre-war fashion, where each photo was much more than a simple cliché: it was a formidable weapon against counterfeiting.
The exhibition sheds light on "model registration", a little-known but essential practice in the fashion world of the early 20th century. As a component of industrial property, in the same way as patents and trademarks, design registrations were filed with the "conseil des prud'hommes" or the court clerk's office until 1979. These legal tools made it possible to protect the creations of the great couturiers against illegal copying, and to bring infringement actions in the event of unauthorized reproduction. At a time when Parisian haute couture was shining brightly, it also became a target for unscrupulous copiers. Design registrations, attesting to the industrial and intellectual properties of creations, were used as evidence in high-profile court cases, such as that of Madeleine Vionnet in 1921.
The Musée des Arts Décoratifs unveils over 120 photographs from its collections, juxtaposed with silhouettes and fashion accessories by Jeanne Lanvin, Jean Patou, Marcel Rochas, Madeleine Vionnet, Jeanne Paquin, Elsa Schiaparelli and many others. These images, taken on the spot or carefully staged, bear witness to the authenticity and savoir-faire of the great Parisian fashion houses. Donated to the museum in 1940, they are now an invaluable source of inspiration for contemporary designers.
Curated by Sébastien Quéquet, the exhibition promises a fascinating exploration of this distinctive iconography. Visitors will discover how these model deposits were inspired by the forensic photography techniques of criminologist Alphonse Bertillon, developed in the 1880s. An unexpected nod to the history of fashion and justice!
The period covered by the exhibition, from 1917 to 1934, offers an exceptional panorama of the greatest names in haute couture: from the Maison Worth to Chéruit, Hermès, Lanvin, Paquin, Lucien Lelong and many others. These photographs, by masters such as Man Ray, Gilbert René, Pierre Choumoff and Thérèse Bonney, as well as illustrious unknowns, capture the essence of the era. However, they remain unjustly less well known than the photographs intended for the press or exhibitions.
The scenography of these model repositories is sure to surprise. Some designers opt for sober, uncluttered settings, while others, like Madeleine Vionnet, compete in ingenuity with avant-garde mirror effects and photographic devices. Still others, like Paul Poiret, set their creations in richly decorated worlds. These photographs thus reveal a double face: both a functional tool for legal protection and a genuine work of creation.
By revealing the secrets behind these registered designs, the exhibition highlights the importance of protecting creations against counterfeiting, an issue that is more topical than ever in the age of digital technology and artificial intelligence. "La Mode en Modèles" is an invitation to rediscover a little-known part of fashion history, which continues to influence and inspire today's leading designers.
A wonderful opportunity to discover a secret and fascinating facet of the history of Parisian haute couture.
Dates and Opening Time
From November 6, 2024 to January 26, 2025
Location
Museum of Decorative Arts
107 Rue de Rivoli
75001 Paris 1
Prices
Tarif -26 ans: Free
Tarif Réduit: €10
Plein Tarif: €15
Official website
madparis.fr
Booking
billetterie.madparis.fr
