Le Désert de Retz, the unusual Anglo-Chinese park in Yvelines

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Published by My de Sortiraparis, Rizhlaine de Sortiraparis · Photos by My de Sortiraparis · Published on September 17, 2024 at 06:55 a.m.
One of the most unusual spots in the Paris region is the Desert de Retz, at Chambourcy in the Yvelines. This 18th-century Anglo-Chinese garden is one of the few to have been preserved in its original state. This enchanting place, once frequented by the likes of Marie-Antoinette and Thomas Jefferson, stands out for its fanciful constructions. You'll also enjoy discovering the many remarkable trees that dominate the landscaped area.

Looking for an unusual place to stroll and dream? There's an unusual gardenin the Paris region where time seems to stand still. In the Yvelines, an Anglo-Chinese garden resembling an open-air cabinet of curiosities awaits you for a peaceful stroll punctuated by intriguing landscapes. It's called the Désert de Retz.

Open only on Saturday afternoons from April to October, this site is unique for its singular architecture blending oriental, antique and European styles. This historic park offers an initiatory journey through 38 hectares of nature, dotted with astonishing factories that bear witness to the Age of Enlightenment.

The Désert de Retz, created between 1774 and 1789 by François Nicolas Henri Racine de Monville, is one of the few remaining examples of "park fabriques" in France. Its layout, inspired by the great civilizations, invites you to take an architectural and philosophical journey. Along the way, you'll discover factories as eclectic as they are original.

Abandoned after the French Revolution, the Désert de Retz suffered long periods of neglect, despite being listed on Monuments Historiques in 1941. It was only in 2007 that Chambourcy town council acquired the property for a symbolic one euro, thus initiating a new era of restoration. Today, thanks to patrons such as the Conseil Départemental and the DRAC, this historic treasure has regained some of its lustre. The commune, in partnership with companies and private donors, is overseeing the rehabilitation of the various factories that make up this extraordinary estate.

The Désert de Retz owes its name to the 18th-century term "desert", meaning an isolated place conducive to reflection and escape. So we forget the image of a sandy desert and turn to the image of a place to recharge one's batteries. A stroll through the park is truly a journey through time and imagination, following a path that leads from darkness to light, as symbolized by the Rocher factory, an invitation to an initiatory passage.

You'll also discover some remarkable trees, such as the Giant Sequoia, the American Red Oak and the Cedar of Lebanon, witnesses to the passing of time. Discover no fewer than 23 gigantic trees that are sure to impress.

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Originally, the site was made up of 17 factories. Some, like the famous Maison Chinoise, have now disappeared, but seven of them have survived the passage of time and are still with us today, sometimes in the form of relics.

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Among the most striking discoveries is the Pyramide Glacière, an astonishing structure dating back to 1781. Spanning three levels, it was once used to store ice throughout the summer. The blocks, stored in a deep cellar, were used to cool drinks and prepare sorbets, a rare luxury at the time. The pyramid is a reminder of the ingenuity and originality of the Age of Enlightenment.

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Further on, the Temple to the God Pan, built in 1775, is a tribute to ancient Greece and philosophy. This small circular building, with its Tuscan columns and black-and-white marble floor, was dedicated to music and reflection. It symbolizes the very spirit of the Désert de Retz: a place where people come to meditate, to reconnect with nature and art. This temple, like many of the park's other fabriques, contributes to the initiatory atmosphere that reigns here, inviting visitors on a journey of inner discovery.

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Continuing our walk, we come across the enigmatic ruined Gothic church. Unlike the other fabriques, this one is an authentic 13th-century ruin. This chapel, once at the heart of the hamlet of Saint-Jacques de Retz, is today a melancholy vestige of the past. Monsieur de Monville became its owner after lengthy negotiations with the clergy, and skilfully incorporated it into his tour, reinforcing the idea of a journey through time.

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The centerpiece of the park, however, is the famous destroyed column, a veritable icon of the Désert de Retz. Built in 1781, this "ruined" column is in fact a clever fabrication: inside, its layout is extremely refined. With a spiral staircase lit by a glass roof, white marble fireplaces and mirrors reflecting the surrounding landscape, this factory served as Monsieur de Monville's main residence. Even today, it symbolizes the creative genius of the period, playing on the contrasts between the ruined exterior and the rich interior.

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Another unusual discovery is the Tartar Tent. Located on the Île du Bonheur, it evokes distant, exotic lands. Once used as a weapons room by Monsieur de Monville, reputed to be an excellent archer, this nomadic-style tent reinforces the sense of travel and escape that this extraordinary park provides.

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Along the way, you'll also come across other intriguing structures such as the Rocher and the grotte végétale, once framed by statues of satyrs.

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The Désert de Retz is an invitation to escape and meditate, in a natural setting of great beauty. It's a true escape from time, just a few kilometers from Paris. Every factory here bears witness to the inventiveness and refinement of the Enlightenment. A place to visit for its landscapes, its remarkable trees, and the story it tells through these unique creations.

As you can see, the Désert de Retz is an original place where you can enjoy a beautiful green setting punctuated by unusual landscapes. A great way to recharge your batteries while discovering the treasures of the Île-de-France region! Throughout the year, special tours await you, such as the one planned for the Journées du Patrimoine.


Practical information

Dates and Opening Time
Starts November 23, 2024

× Approximate opening times: to confirm opening times, please contact the establishment.

    Location

    Le Désert de Retz
    78240 Chambourcy

    Route planner

    Prices
    Tarif enfant (8-17 ans): €6
    Tarif visite libre: €10
    Tarif visite commentée: €14

    Average duration
    1 h 30 min

    Official website
    www.ledesertderetz.fr

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