Papy aux fourneaux, the old-fashioned restaurant in the 14th arrondissement

Open since summer 2017 in the Pernety district, Papy aux fourneaux puts conviviality back on the plate with dishes to share for two or more around large tables. Nostalgic for family meals and lovers of French cuisine will find comfort here for their palates.

The devil is in the details, and judging by the napkin rings on the tables and the garden gnomes on the shelves, they're very important here. Papy aux fourneaux is the address that brings kitsch and old-fashioned back into fashion, under the watchful eye of decorator Elise Cavard, who has already designed the Pavillon des Canaux and the Bar à Bulles at the Machine du Moulin Rouge. Nestled on rue de l'Ouest, in the quiet 14th arrondissement, between the Gaîté and Pernety metros, this restaurant, which opened last July, could date back a hundred years, if everything here didn't smell so new.

Large tables to accommodate the whole family or a host of friends, a lounge area with a chess set and a delicatessen at the entrance give the 60-seat restaurant a warm, friendly atmosphere. "We wanted to recreate the atmosphere of a table d'hôte," explains Julien Meunier, who co-manages the establishment with Pierre Durand. And we succeeded. After just a few minutes, you'll already feel a little "at home", and you won't hesitate to leave your table for a game of table soccer before being served, just to whet your appetite.

As for the à la carte menu, we consult the weekly suggestions on a slate board. On the evening of our visit, veal parmentier osso buco style, tomatoes stuffed with spelt risotto or pollack with beurre blanc and wild rice with smoked salt are on the main course menu. The tightly-packed menu gives pride of place to fresh produce from small-scale producers, with each dish featuring a seafood dish, a meat dish and a vegetarian option. We opted for the stuffed tomatoes and loved both the simplicity of presentation and the originality and palatability of the recipe.

But before you start tasting, you need to agree with your guests on the choice of menu. Because here, all dishes are to be shared by two or more. And the more people choose the same dish, the lower the unit price. Count on 19 euros per person if there are two of you, and 17 euros if there are three or more.

As you'll have gathered, there's no room here for every man for himself. Food is served in large cast-iron casseroles placed in the middle of the table, from which everyone helps themselves, rather than from the plate. This is the spirit of Papy aux fourneaux: to recapture the atmosphere of grandparents' dinners, when the whole family gathered around a tasty meal prepared by grandma. Except that the owners of the place are millennials, and they've decided to entrust the apron to Grandpa. And we like it that way.

Note: a vast terrace is due to open this summer 2018 on the small square facing the restaurant's entrance... To be continued!

Please note that it's been over 4 years since our last visit, so the place and experience may have changed.