L'Envolée, the restaurant in the winter garden of the 5* hotel La Demeure Montaigne

A new arrival in the Paris Golden Triangle, the5-star Demeure Montaignehotel opened its doors at the end of last year, under the impetus of the Frontenac group. Still a confidential address, the Demeure Montaigne has a bistronomic restaurant, l'Envolée, to welcome guests in search of a good meal, as well as visiting gourmets.

Located in the heart of the hotel, the restaurant is housed in a bright and welcoming winter garden, bathed in natural light thanks to a large glass roof, and pleasantly warmed by a fireplace. Heading up the kitchen is chef Grégory Réjou, who has worked in the kitchens of La Vieille Fontaine, Plaza Athénée and Lasserre, and who offers a short menu of seasonal dishes featuring fine produce from short circuits and small French producers.

On the menu, dishes that pay tribute to French classicism through a plurality of terroirs, skilfully executed. Proof of this is the pâté en croûte, a great classic of French cuisine, which is adapted here according to the season and the chef's whims, in land, sea or vegetarian versions. Chef Grégory Réjou's favorite dish, the pâté en croûte has a place of choice on the Envolée menu; and the pâté en croûte of the moment, with Racan farm pigeon (21€), is perfectly executed. The carpaccio of sea bream from Brittany (18€), with its powerful citrus caviar and Buddha's hand condiment, should wake up your taste buds.

For the main courses, the chef highlights French game, in keeping with the hunting season, with a pepper-roasted back of venison (39€), accompanied by vegetables and winter fruits in several ways; but also French fishing, with wild sea bass goujonnette from Brittany, (37€), pumpkin, chestnut and Grenoble sauce. As you can see, the French terroir has a bright future ahead of it at l'Envolée.

• To be read
• Villa9Trois, Montreuil's star-spangled new institution
• Oxte, star-rated Mexican cuisine by Enrique Casarrubias
• Gastronomic restaurants in Paris, our best addresses

For desserts, the Demeure Montaigne restaurant called on chef Arnaud Larher, Meilleur Ouvrier de France, to create two desserts, one based on chocolate, the other his famous rum baba. We decided, however, to put our trust in chef Grégory Réjou, who proposed two fresh, fruity desserts: organic clementine, vanilla confit, long pepper sorbet (15€), on the one hand, and poached pear, Tonka bean cream, pear sorbet (15€), on the other.

A pretty, confidential address to discover in the Golden Triangle.