L'Envolée, the restaurant in the winter garden of the 5* hotel La Demeure Montaigne

Located in the winter garden of the 5* La Demeure Montaigne hotel, the L'Envolée restaurant celebrates French classicism, with the finest local produce.

A new arrival in the Paris Golden Triangle, the5-star Demeure Montaignehotel opened its doors at the end of last year, under the impetus of the Frontenac group. Still a confidential address, the Demeure Montaigne has opened a bistronomic restaurant, l'Envolée, to welcome guests in search of a good meal, as well as visiting gourmets.

At the heart of the hotel, the restaurant is set in a bright and welcoming winter garden, bathed in natural light thanks to a large glass roof, and pleasantly warmed by a fireplace. Heading up the kitchen is chef Grégory Réjou, who has worked in the kitchens of La Vieille Fontaine, Plaza Athénée and Lasserre, and whose short menu offers seasonal cuisine featuring the finest produce from short supply chains and small French producers.

On the menu, dishes that pay homage to French classicism through a plurality of terroirs, executed with skill. Proof of this is the pâté en croûte, a great classic of French cuisine, which is adapted here according to the season and the chef's whims, in land, sea or vegetarian versions. Chef Grégory Réjou's favorite dish, the pâté en croûte has a place of choice on the Envolée menu; and the pâté en croûte of the moment, with Racan farm pigeon (21€), is perfectly executed. The carpaccio of Brittany sea bream (18€), with its powerful citrus caviar and Buddha's hand condiment, should wake up your taste buds.

As for the dishes, the chef highlights French game, in keeping with the hunting season, with a pepper-roasted back of venison (39€), accompanied by vegetables and winter fruits in several ways; but also French fishing, with wild sea bass goujonnette from Brittany, (37€), pumpkin, chestnut and Grenoble sauce. As you can see, the French terroir has a bright future ahead of it at l'Envolée.

For desserts, the Demeure Montaigne restaurant called on chef Arnaud Larher, Meilleur Ouvrier de France, to create two desserts, one based on chocolate, the other his famous rum baba. We decided, however, to put our trust in chef Grégory Réjou, who proposed two fresh, fruity desserts: organic clementine, vanilla confit, long pepper sorbet (15€), and poached pear, Tonka bean cream, pear sorbet (15€).

A pretty, confidential address to discover in the Golden Triangle.

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know.