Kúkú: remember the name, because you're going to be hearing a lot about it. Tucked away in a recess of the rue de Penthièvre, near the Champs-Elysées, this surprising restaurant takes us on a journey far from Paris, first and foremost for its trendy, exotic setting. While the weather can often be capricious in the capital, this address stands out as a place where the sun always shines. A table of the world, imagined by Loic Berardengo and Zoltan Paterne.
On the first floor, Kúkú takes us to Capri and invites us to enjoy a delicious break in the shade of the lemon trees. It's like being on the terrace of an Italian villa, and the vacation spirit is not far away. From the open kitchen, you can see the chefs busy preparing their culinary masterpieces, and to be at the forefront of this show, you can also sit at the counter and have a chat with them. Because that's the spirit of Kúkú: sharing a passion in the company of the restaurant's friendly staff.
But there's something else that catches your eye. From the staircase leading down to the basement, bougainvillea flowers seem to be holding out a hand (or a branch) to invite you to take this side path. Beware of jetlag as you descend the stairs: in a matter of seconds, you leave Italy behind and find yourself in the heart of the Greek islands. The bougainvillea-covered walls provide a bucolic backdrop, and although we're in the basement of a Parisian restaurant, the lazy vibe wins us over, creating a welcome break from the hectic pace of the capital.
And that's just the beginning! Because once you've decided between Capri and Santorini, the journey continues on the plate. A glance at the menu tells you all you need to know. Some dish titles will arouse your curiosity, while others may seem more familiar. But we've warned you: expect the unexpected. Because in the kitchen, you'll find a crack team: chef Julien Gasperi, in tandem with sous-chef Ayoub Ben Hammi, compete in ingenuity and put their heart and soul into recipes that combine artistic creativity with gastronomic finesse and generous plates.
For starters, we were intrigued by the origami-style Greek salad, and we weren't disappointed: the reinterpretation of this great classic reveals a Tetris of flavors. Restructured like a rubik's cube, each piece of the puzzle showcases the star products that make up this staple, from the sun-drenched tomato to the freshness of the cucumber, not forgetting the sweetness of the feta and a rhubarb compote that adds an extra twist... you won't forget Kúkú-style Greek salad!
But the imagination behind Kúkú's menu doesn't stop there. The langoustine, parmesan and Peruvian coffee pairing is a wonderful introduction to this offbeat universe. While the name may seem surprising, we recommend that you take the plunge and try this appetizer, as it promises to be a wonderful discovery.
Without warning, a trompe-l'œil cappuccino finds its way onto our table. Surrounded by steaming dry ice, this unexpected presentation is sure to have you reaching for your smartphone and taking pictures. Kuku turns the tables on us by starting our lunch with a coffee break. We dip crispy briouates into a cup which, under a creamy Parmesan emulsion, reveals the intriguing combination of langoustine flesh and the cocoa notes of Peruvian coffee. Spoiler Alert: we loved it.
At every stage of our lunch, no matter what we chose, Kúkú manages to surprise us, right down to the cocktails, with a menu signed Matthias Giroud, the talented head bartender who unveils ever more surprising recipes. In fact, you'll be sure to let us know about the Kúkú Garden, a creation based on dark rum, pineapple, mountain tea and Muira Puama, with its deliciously smoky notes and... astonishing presentation!
To continue this sunny escapade, the Romanesco and Granny Smith octopus might just catch your fancy. Prepared Catalan-style, the octopus is vacuum-packed and cooked at low temperature for 24 hours. Then, when it's time to serve, it's simply snacked on with a real meat jus. As a result, the octopus crisps slightly before revealing its melt-in-the-mouth flesh, while apple pieces refresh the palate.
If Lobster Roll is your guilty pleasure, wait until you taste Julien Gasperi's recipe. We warn you, for our part, it counts as one of the best revisits of this North American street-food classic. Here, the slices of toasted bread are thinner, for a more generous lobster filling. The aniseed notes in this revisitation add a touch of gourmandise, accompanied by a bean hummus that adds a certain sweetness, truffle shavings that spice things up, and a harissa-scented mayonnaise that's just to die for.
For dessert, pastry chef Aldo Gennuso takes over. He literally makes every plate his own. One example is the Panna Cotta Frida, a gourmet tribute to Frida Kahlo. The unibrow, lips and earrings are drawn directly onto the plate, while a fruity headdress crowns the famous Mexican artist. This plate features the delicious flavor of red berries, married with floral notes of poppy, and sprinkled with breezes of matcha green tea sponge cake.
Another signature creation for sweet tooths: the Cactus Jack. Here again, our plate is transformed into a work of art, with a reinterpretation of the strawberry plant that's just to die for. Pieces of strawberry are topped with a homemade chantilly cream and accompanied by the famous Jack, a cactus made from a green tea sponge cake as soft as a sponge cake. An ice cream completes the picture to refresh us at the end of the meal. And don't miss the deconstructed mille-feuille with Dulce de Leche (milk jam) to end this escapade on a regressive note.
As you can see, we've fallen in love with Kúkú and theculinary experience it offers from starter to dessert. A place to keep an eye on!
Location
Kúkú Restaurant
23 Rue de Penthièvre
75008 Paris 8
Access
Metro Miromesnil (lines 9 and 13)
Prices
Desserts: €10 - €32
Entrées: €16 - €22
Cocktails: €16 - €19
Plats: €24 - €48
Menu déjeuner entrée + plat ou plat / dessert: €27
Menu entrée + plat + dessert: €32
Official website
www.kukurestaurant.com