Magma: chef Ryuya Ono's restaurant, a new gourmet nugget in Paris's 11th arrondissement

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Published by Caroline de Sortiraparis · Photos by Caroline de Sortiraparis · Published on September 8, 2022 at 05:12 p.m.
The new culinary address of the moment is located in Oberkampf, in the 11th arrondissement of Paris. Like an erupting volcano, the Magma restaurant leaves no one indifferent, and leaves its mark on both minds and taste buds thanks to the instinctive French cuisine of talented Japanese chef Ryuya Ono.

Every back-to-school season has its share of gourmet surprises. Among them is Magma. To be more precise, this restaurant opened in July 2022. And word-of-mouth seems to have worked well, as the place was fully booked when we went there on a Tuesday evening.

It has to be said that behind Magma is a power duo, made up of Lucie Paulhan, formerly of the restaurants La Traversée and Le Maquis, and Japanese chef Ryuya Ono. Well-known to discerning gourmets, Ryuya Ono hails from Yamaguchi in Japan. It was in the Land of the Rising Sun that he familiarized himself with French cuisine when he joined the L'As restaurant in Tokyo. His love of French gastronomy continued when he arrived in France and worked with chef Bruno Verjus at La Table (now a 2-star restaurant), before joining Maison SOTA and then L'Attache.

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Since the summer of 2022, young chef Ryuya Ono has been at the helm of his first restaurant, simply named Magma. Here, don't look for the menu on the front. You'll have to push open the doors of this ultra-friendly, relaxed place to discover the gourmet proposals concocted daily by the chef. Ryuya Ono changes much of his menu every day, cooking according to what's available, what's in season and what he feels like cooking. But French gastronomy, with a Japanese twist, remains the basis. The chef likes to work with the same products (guinea fowl, beef, tuna...) to offer a multitude of different recipes, with a particular emphasis on land and sea combinations, and sauces that are always a knockout.

And we had a memorable experience. That day, in addition to the 7-course tasting menu, the chef suggested 5 starters, 3 main courses and 3 desserts, each as tempting as the next.

To start things off, we began with one of the chef's signature starters, the succulent knife-aged beef tartare, garnished with sansho and topped with pommes allumettes.

Opposite, incredibly melt-in-the-mouth red tuna, with a few pieces ofJapanese eggplant and lychee for a tangy touch.

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The gourmet journey continues with a delicious rabbit pithiviers, accompanied by cape gooseberries andsmoked eel, on the one hand, and an extremely tender, lightly smoked guinea fowl on the other, cuddled by a crab sauce and fennel salad. The generously garnished dish is accompanied by a small omelette, while the pithiviers is best enjoyed with a cold plate of burnt peppers.

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Magma à Paris, nos photosMagma à Paris, nos photosMagma à Paris, nos photosMagma à Paris, nos photos

Finally, for those with a sweet tooth, there's another mouth-watering explosion in store, with poached Williams pear accompanied by an incredibly refreshing bay leaf ice cream. Opposite, originality is the order of the day with a cherry tomato vacherin, a creamy custard and a vine peach ice cream.

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Magma à Paris, nos photosMagma à Paris, nos photosMagma à Paris, nos photosMagma à Paris, nos photos

All accompanied by fine vintages from several French vineyards and beyond.

It would be no exaggeration to say that the evening's dishes were a succession of "coup de cœur" after "coup de cœur". With noble products, masterful cooking, perfectly balanced flavors, ultra-gourful and refined sauces, and daring, ever-changing recipes, chef Ryuya Ono succeeded in seducing and delighting our taste buds from the beginning to the end of the meal, offering us a veritable explosion in the mouth with every bite. Magma certainly lives up to its name!

Practical information

Dates and Opening Time
Starts September 5, 2022

× Approximate opening times: to confirm opening times, please contact the establishment.

    Location

    9 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud
    75011 Paris 11

    Route planner

    Prices
    Entrée: €12 - €17
    Dessert: €12 - €13
    Plat: €26 - €30
    Menu dégustation en 7 services - le soir: €70

    Official website
    www.instagram.com

    Booking
    01 48 05 56 90

    Comments
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