Café Max, generous French cuisine in this Resistance stronghold

This autumn, chef Frédéric Vardon, who also heads the 39V airliner in the Golden Triangle, takes over from Valdo Riva and, de facto, the helm at Café Max, a small 28-seat estaminet with a last-century feel, with its red banquettes and zinc counter.

The history of Café Max dates back to the last century, when it was a hotbed of the French Resistance. This famous Parisian bistro, then called Café Hélice, was run by Eugène Germain, a resistance fighter and former pilot rescued from the First World War, who organized dances that were particularly popular with the Germans.

• To be read
• New restaurants expected to open in Paris in September 2024
• New restaurants in Paris, our best addresses
• Tips for the week of November 25 to December 1, 2024 in Paris: free or inexpensive outings

Every Thursday, the owner and his fellow resistance fighters would spy on the enemy using a transmitter hidden in the orchestra's accordion, passing on the information they gleaned to General de Gaulle in London! Renamed Café Max in honor of a member of the small group of spies who fought alongside Jean Moulin, the bistro went on to become a Parisian institution that has since attracted businessmen from the Invalides and Ecole Militaire districts .

The cuisine here is both playful and generous, with the great French classics that have proved their worth over the centuries, prepared in the kitchen by chef Régis Letourneur. On the menu, you'll find eggs mimosa, crispy pig's ears (22€), sautéed razor clams in beure (16€), peasant terrine (13€), as well as a host of raw products, including charcuterie, to share with your guests.

The herring pomme à l'huile (18€), prepared according to the rules of the art, hits the spot; the white tuna ventrèche (58€), recommended for 2 to 3 guests - and it's easy to see why when you see the plate arrive, as it's so generous - is served on beautiful slices of just-toasted bread.

To continue in the great French tradition, some will opt for the veal kidneys à la Normande (34€) or the Salers beef tartare cut, of course, with a knife (27€). For our part, we're enticed by the timbale of macaroni au gratin with old Comté cheese (28€), highlighted by a powerful chanterelle sauce, as the season demands; and by the meat dish of the day, a tender Simmental entrecôte, sautéed potatoes and Béarnaise sauce (45€), which could easily have satisfied two appetites.

There's no doubt that chef Frédéric Vardon was right to take over this Parisian institution. Regulars are not mistaken: they always turn up, every lunchtime.