Honō, a string of Japanese yakitori cooked in binchotan in a pretty traditional setting

Inspired by the izakaya of Tokyo andOsaka, both in its menu and decor, Honō is aJapanese bistro dedicated to yakitori, those unmissable Japanese skewers cooked on binchotan, the Nipponese white charcoal grill . Hence the name, which means"flame" in Japanese.

Behind the address, a duo of bon vivants: restaurateurs Benjamin Moréel and Christopher Préchez (John Weng, Le Petit Bouillon Pharamond) backed by chef Akira Sugiura (ex-Papi, ex-Sola), who signs the menu. The pair have given free rein to their imagination, opting for a sober, contemporary decor, both woody and intimate, typical of Japanese yakitori bars.

Wood adorns the walls and furniture, in all its forms and essences, and gourmets gather in the strictest intimacy in small cubicles, under the glow of rice paper lanterns. Traditional kokeshi dolls and noren imported from Japan complete the tasteful décor. Quite simply, it's like being there. On the well-stocked shelves of the second room, groceries abound - sake, lemonades, seaweed, vinegars and spices.

The idea behind Honō is to put yakitori back at the center of the plate, and to show a different side to the one known to Parisians, namely the beef and cheese skewer from the corner deli (a purely Western creation). In Japan, yakitori is an important part of the country' s cuisine, a veritable snack that can be eaten at any time of day in the markets.

Among the many grilled dishes on the menu:

Meaty offerings: crispy 5-spice chicken; chicken tsukune with scamorza; marinated-grilled beef flank steak with wasabi stems; wagyu with truffled gouda as a fancy nod to beef and cheese; pork loin with yuzu sauce vierge
Marine dishes: grilled tuna with gremolata sauce
Vegetable proposals: burnt leeks, katsuobushi, okonomiyaki sauce; Japanese rice lacquered with teriyaki sauce, nori seaweed; eryngii mushroom with parsley butter; shiitake stuffed with prawns

If the wagyu-gouda skewer is already a must-try at this address, the vegetal offerings are just as stunning, particularly the stuffed shiitake, which is particularly naughty, and the burnt leek, which is absolutely delicious. Not to mention the lacquered meats - some of which are rendered almost sticky by the sauce - and the finger-licking barbecue flavor.

Alongside skewers, which can be enjoyed in pairs (€5.50-€11) or as a menu (€18-€28), Honō also unveils a selection of small plates,'kozara', izakaya-style: tuna tataki, yuzu vinaigrette; beef tataki, smoked stracciatella, homemade chimichurri sauce to die for; smashed cucumber topped with sesame seeds; miso soup; or Honō rice with furikake, which is served as standard with the menus.

And to accompany it all, sakes and sparkling sakes, natural and more traditional wines, umeshu, Kirin beers (€6) and Japanese whiskies are all on the menu. Honō is a change of scene in many ways.

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know.