Chez Fred: bistro and local cuisine in western Paris

Some addresses are like places of pilgrimage, as their birth dates go back so far. Such is the case with Chez Fred. Established since 1945 along the Promenade Pereire in the capital's 17th arrondissement, this bistro has long seduced Parisian taste buds with its bouchon lyonnais concept.

But since January 2019, with the arrival of Laurent Hullo at the head of the establishment, Chez Fred has modernized, bringing a breath of fresh air to the menu, without totally altering its identity. Laurent Hullo, formerly of the Kinugawa restaurant (Groupe Blackcode) and former"maître de cérémonie des dîners de Monsieur Bleu" (Groupe Malafosse Noctis), offers deceptively simple dishes. To titillate the taste buds of regulars and new gourmands alike, since September 2021 he has teamed up with chef Benjamin Lavenne (Le Procope, Le Georges, Hôtel de Castiglione...).

And Benjamin Lavenne 's arrival behind the stove isn't the only thing new at Chez Fred, as the restaurant has taken advantage of the months of closure to give itself a facelift. Gone is the folkloric table setting. Instead, we've added an all-wood facade, wine-colored banquettes, a flamboyant awning, outdoor lanterns and two counter-terraces, all highly sought-after in the Ternes district of Paris.

When it comes to gourmet offerings, we've opted for the slate menu, with authentic, seasonal and local recipes that smell of bistronomic cuisine, both gourmet and convivial. Foie gras au torchon maison, cœur d'Aloyau, filet de boeuf au poivre Sarawak, not to mention tarte fine aux pommes, profiteroles and artisanal ice creams from the Ardèche... so many tempting propositions that we can't help but choose from. What's more, Chez Fred doesn't skimp on quality, since the establishment calls on a number of references in the field, such as Christophe Latour, an exceptional organic fruit and vegetable producer from Agen, meats from Huguenin, not to mention the Martine Dubois cheese dairy.

After careful consideration, we finally decided on the inevitable organic eggs mayonnaise on one side, and the chef's terrine on the other. Two choices that only confirm our first impressions: dishes with a canaille air, but ultra gourmet and generous.

• To be read
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• Bistronomic restaurants in Paris, our best addresses
• Tips for the week of November 18 to 24, 2024 in Paris: free or inexpensive outings

We continue with the succulent, moist pike quenelle served with a tasty lobster sauce and rice. A classic of the genre that always makes an impression, especially when cooked with love like Chez Fred. Opposite, we offer tender veal liver with parsley and mashed potatoes. Once again, it's a pleasure to taste!

To accompany these delicious dishes, Chez Fred offers some of the finest vintages from Burgundy and Bordeaux to delight the palate of connoisseurs and novices alike.

And because we can't resist the call of chocolate, what could be better than an imposing bowl of chocolate mousse to share with two or more! A pleasantly sweet note to round off this hearty, tasty meal from Chez Fred, which still has plenty of delicious surprises in store, 77 years after its birth in Paris.