Chulita, Mexican street food and churros for brunch

Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud continues to welcome new addresses, signs of a real gourmet revival in the Oberkampf district. A short while ago, we told you about Nour, a little Israeli stall where you can enjoy arayes, and Mala Boom, where you can discover málà xiāngguō, gigantic bowls of spicy noodles to share.

This time, we're heading for Mexico, just a stone's throw away, to Chulita, a flashy little bistro run by two chefs, Minerva Casas on the savoury side and Margot Farenc on the sweet side. Here, the queen of the menu is the torta, a traditional Mexican sandwich made to the highest standards, given the number of South Americans seated in the small room or at the counter of this torteria.

Traditionally prepared in a round, soft bread called telera, the torta is based on two essential elements: mashed beans for texture and a good layer of guacamole for freshness. Then there are the original bread rolls from the Sain bakery. Chulita's à la carte menu includes 5 torta proposals (€11 each) featuring the finest Latin meats, such as pork marinated in achiote and orange or chicken escalope, as well as a vegetarian torta with seasonal vegetables.

And what a fabulous discovery this torta barbacoa is, with beef cheek and tongue simmered for 6 hours. One of our finest street-food discoveries of the year, it's a real dish worked into a generous sandwich, with this melting, fragrant meat. The little extra? The option of adding a variety of sauces and jalapenos for even more kick.

At lunchtime on Saturdays, Chulita unveils a brunch that is already a victim of its own success. The price is very affordable: €24 for a torta or chilaquiles, dessert, agua fresca and coffee. Don't hesitate to opt for thetamarind agua fresca, which may not be as colorful as the hibiscus agua fresca, but is deliciously tangy and surprising, or for the jarritos, a Mexican soda with guava, mango and pineapple.

Of course, it's possible to add extra elements to the brunch, for a small fee: frijoles (a puree of black beans, tomatoes, fresh cheese, cilantro and tortilla chips), papas Al Escabeche (potatoes marinated in oil, vinegar and green chile), totopos con salsa (tortilla chips and salsa verde) and, of course, el famoso guacamole. And for dessert, we opt for our homemade mini churros, crispy and covered in dulce de leche. Finger-licking good!

In the evening, Chulita trades in its street-food hat for more sophisticated dishes, such as Aguachile (shrimps marinated in lemon juice and green chili), Pescado tacos, and blue cornmeal quesadillas filled with meat of the day or vegetables, and we'll be delighted to come and try them, so much so that we've come to love the place!

Chulita, Mexican street food and churros for brunch

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