There's a change afoot at La Condesa. This fall, Mexican chef Indra Carrillo Perea 's restaurant is moving a few meters, from 17 to 13 rue Rodier, from 24 to 34 covers. A larger venue, but one that loses none of its warm welcome and attentive service, allowing the chef to unveil his vision of extraordinary cuisine to a larger number of diners.
It's also an opportunity for the chef to indulge his passions without having to push the walls - chocolate through new desserts, but also wine, with the complicity ofoenologist Daniel Henderson, who unveils a cellar of 250 fine pints drawn from France, Italy, Portugal and the United States, while focusing on rare and forgotten grape varieties, biodynamic wines and wines made by women winemakers, at a time when the profession is becoming increasingly feminized.
A veritable compendium of the travels and techniques acquired by Indra Carrillo Perea through his encounters with chefs and artisans across the globe, La Condesa is the fruit of a long-term project, the final destination of a gastronomic world tour by the now 34-year-old chef.
The globe-trotting chef began this journey over 15 years ago, after leaving his native Mexico for the love of cooking. A romance that took him from India to the United States, via London and Tokyo. The final stop on his journey was France, where he completed his apprenticeship at theInstitut Paul Bocuse, before going on to work with prestigious chefs - Yannick Alléno at Le Meurice, Eric Fréchon at Le Bristol.
Curiosity even led this true jack-of-all-trades to intern with some of France 's Best Craftsmen in chocolate-making, fishmongering, baking and butchery, to perfect his skills in a multitude of fields as diverse as they are varied.
In 2017, Indra Carrillo Perea took advantage of the Gault & Millau award she had received a year earlier to open her first address, La Condesa, which was awarded aMichelin star in early 2019 - then lost it in 2024. Without making a clean sweep of the past, La Condesa nouvelle version ushers the restaurant into a new era, thanks in part to the meticulous work ofarchitect Camille Flammarion, already responsible for decorating the previous address.
She imagined three rooms for three different atmospheres: the Salle Noisette, the Table du Chef and the Salle Blanche, which can be privatized, as different spaces to discover La Condesa's menus, offered in 6 courses (120€) and 8 courses (150€) for dinner from Tuesday to Saturday, and for lunch on Fridays only.
Unpredictable because of its many influences, combining the perfection of French gastronomy with inspirations from Mexico - of course - to Japan, Spain and Denmark, the cuisine of this constantly searching chef is one of the finest discoveries of our year. For a total experience, choose your food and wine pairings without blinking, and above all, take your time.
Time to contemplate the beauty of the plates , hand-crafted by New Zealand ceramist Richard Naylor, and the hand-blown Japanese glassware , including a fabulous double-bottomed bowl that verges on the magical; the time to understand the generosity and sincerity emanating from each plate, with its multiple accents and reliefs; the time to listen to the sweet, tantalizing melody evoking what lies ahead; the time to savor dishes that are absolutely overwhelming in their accuracy, depth and immediate pleasure.
* * *
Crab cake tartlet, Granny Smith apple, kohlrabi
Cabbage pastry, smoked eggplant stuffing
Corn and avocado tostada
Flaxseed crumble, celery siphon and grape sorbet
* * *
Pollack, pickled Reine Claude, brocoletti
* * *
Corn and ricotta agnoletti, roasted corn broth
* * *
Monkfish cooked on the bone, beurre monté, hibiscus and hibiscus sauce
* * *
Mushroom experience
Buckwheat emulsion, meadowsweet royal, enoki pickles
Smoked mushroom broth with cherry wood
Mushroom cromesquis
* * *
Pork, gravy, red cabbage purée, red cabbage leaf
* * *
Oatmeal espuma, coffee ice cream, hazelnut butter cake
* * *
A real favorite.
Dates and Opening Time
Starts November 21, 2024
Location
La Condesa
13 Rue Rodier
75009 Paris 9
Prices
Accords mets et vins: €65 - €80
Menu en 6 services: €120
Menu en 8 services: €150
Official website
lacondesa-paris.com