Borage, winegrowers' wines and plates to share by chef Indra Carrillo Perea

Globe-trotting chef Indra Carrillo Perea is back this autumn with a new project: Bourrache. If you're not familiar with the address of this wine bar and dining cellar, that's perfectly normal! Bourrache is opening at 17 rue Rodier, replacing the first version of the Mexican chef's Michelin-starred restaurant, La Condesa, which is now just a few numbers away.

With Bourrache, Indra Carrillo Perea embarks on a new adventure (yet another one!). His travels in India and the United States, his apprenticeship at the Institut Paul Bocuse and his work in the great houses of France, from Meurice to Bristol, seem a long way off. After internships in chocolate-making, fishmongering, bakery and even butchery, this jack-of-all-trades is now turning his attention to another field: wine.

At Bourrache, open from 6.30pm Wednesday to Sunday, the curious and the aesthete can toast with wines, more particularly wines from winegrowers, and share plates composed of reasoned products based on plants and seafood; all under the lovely fresco by artist Esteban Fuentes de Maria and decoration by architect Camille Flammarion.

And the menu is sure to please, with sharing plates fromSouth America and Italy, featuring noble products such as oysters as well as recipes from poor Italian cuisine, such as pappa al pomodoro (€8), a homemade focaccia roasted in the oven and mixed with a tomato sauce.

• To be read
• La Condesa, a bubbling escapade on the arm of Mexican chef Indra Carrillo Perea
• Paris wine bars and cellars, our top addresses
• Tips for the week of November 18 to 24, 2024 in Paris: free or inexpensive outings

Not bad either is this gibanica (12€), a Serbian puff pastry with as many recipes as there are families who prepare it, here with à la fête and spinach in a coulis of watercress and horseradish; as are these flautas (12€), corn cakes stuffed with masala potato and fried, and this braised beef cheek, marinated in miso (18€) downright naughty and oh so melt-in-your-mouth.

When it comes to wines, Bourrache's second mainstay, head sommelier and oenologist Daniel Henderson is in charge. On his wine list, nearly 200 references of natural and biodynamic wines, where grands crus rub shoulders with more confidential bottles from France and elsewhere - a particular favorite is the cuvée Gipsy Queen from the 4 filles collective (11€ a glass), as well as Italian sparkling wines, champagnes and ciders.