Nellu, bistronomic restaurant and brilliant wine bar - Definitely closed

His first restaurant, Tamara, amazed and overwhelmed us both times we visited, and now chef ClémentVergeat has opened a new bistronomic restaurant and wine bar: Nellu, in Paris's 4th arrondissement, a stone's throw from the banks of the Seine and theÎle Saint-Louis.

At this new address, the thirty-something is not behind the stoves, but has placed a man he trusts in the kitchens of his first restaurant, his former sous-chef Olivier Garcia, who trained with Pierre Sang and Ladurée, before joining the brigades of two Michelin-starred restaurants, Le Fanal in Banyuls sur Mer and Restaurant Copenhague Paris.

Brussels sprouts, shredded chicken, pumpkin seed and lovage pesto

It has to be said that the two partners are on the path to creativity, respect for the finest produce and the metamorphosis of the latter through long-forgotten traditional cooking techniques that have recently come back to the fore, such as fermentation, pickling, dehydration and impregnation.

It's a way of adding unique touches to their creations, while at the same time addressing current issues concerning waste and the protection of the planet. The same is true of the sourcing, which is meticulous and well thought-out, from local fruit and vegetables to bread from the neighboring bakery, La Parisienne, and seafood products from sustainable fishing.

Following in Tamara's footsteps, Nellu offers well-crafted bistronomy on the plates, and fine beverages in the glasses, at lower prices than the first address. Expect to pay €32 for a starter/main course or main course/dessert lunch menu, €39 for a starter/main course/dessert menu, and à la carte options in the evening for an average bill of €60.

Roasted and hay-smoked beets, fermented beets, Sicilian breadcrumbs

Theelegant, minimalist design of the 22-seat restaurant was created by Caroline Tissier, the architect and interior designer behind chef Jacky Ribault's three gourmet restaurants, L'Ours, Qui Plume la Lune and Les Mérovingiens, and differs from Tamara in its darker, woody hues, as well as in its separation between the main dining room, whose large counter overlooks the open kitchen, and a vast guest table, hidden from view and carefully surrounded by 300 skittles that grace the wine bar.

The wine list oscillates between prestigious references and cuvées from small estates, free from borders. German, Romanian and French terroirs, elegant Sauvignon and macerated wines, all carefully selected by Riccardo, Nellu's sommelier, are available for takeaway.

Saithe roasted in butter, cabbage, beurre blanc with yellow wine

At lunchtime, the short menu of two starters, two main courses and two desserts changes daily. The oral description of what awaits us suggests that lunch will be a most auspicious affair. Starting with Brussels sprouts, barely blanched petals and fried petals, gracefully concealing shredded chicken seasoned with pumpkin seed and lovage pesto; and roasted, hay-smoked beets, covered with a fermented milk vinaigrette and Sicilian breadcrumbs - anchovies, capers, garlic, bread - also available in a fermented version.

The dishes are equally delightful: a butter-roasted pollack with cabbage cooked in beurre monté and beurre blanc au vin jaune; and a pressed chicken leg with butternut and garlic emulsion, married to unforgettable pieces of roasted butternut, lacquered with garlic-fermented honey and flame-burned. The preparations add up on the same plate, yet the dishes prove to be highly readable.

Jerusalem artichoke dessert

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The same can be said of the desserts: originality, rigor, meticulous presentation and controlled madness, with the butternut crème brulée and toasted pumpkin seeds; and the Jerusalem artichoke dessert, Jerusalem artichoke caramel, pear crudité, chocolate ganache, Jerusalem artichoke syphon, Jerusalem artichoke skin and Jerusalem artichoke chips. A flawless performance.