Ober Mamma, Big Mamma's cosy trattoria in Oberkampf

It was one of the first Big Mamma addresses to open its doors in the capital, and only the second after East Mamma, heralding the future hegemony of Tigrane Seydoux and Victor Lugger 's group in Italian gastronomy in Paris.

Ober Mamma, located in the Oberkampf district as its name suggests, remains, almost 10 years after its opening, a must for anyone wishing to feast on transalpine specialties ineastern Paris. Whether it's for an aperitivo drink on the doorstep, a business lunch at lunchtime, or an evening ofantipasti with friends, there's always a time to go to Ober Mamma.

The atmosphere here is that of an Italian trattoria. From the iconic bar at the entrance, where cocktails are served, to the pleasant terrace where the sun comes out, to the noisy, lively dining room at the back of the restaurant, facing the open kitchen with its imposing wood-burning oven, where you can eat at the counter or curl up on a bench under the magnificent glass roof that bathes the restaurant in natural light.

8 years later, the credo remains the same: to give pride of place to the finest products from the Botte region, passionately sourced directly from Italian producers. It's not for nothing that these fine cured meats, competitive cheeses and other raw delicacies have their own page on the menu from which to pick and choose, like this heart of coppa, marinated in Marsala wine and Prosecco, then smoked and matured for 50 days (€9).

For starters, alongside the inratables buffala and stracciatella, there are more unique creations like this egg au gratin with pecorino cheese (€7.5), which dips into a thick tomato sauce alongside sautéed button mushrooms; a real dish in itself. The rest of the menu runs smoothly, except for the regret of not being able to taste everything.

Primi and secondi plati have their tongues wagging. Risotto with Italian tomato sauce, guanciale de cochon and pecorino fondue (€17), ossobuco in the purest Milanese tradition (€17), and of course a bevy of fresh pastas prepared on site. Comfort in spades.

But it's hard to forget the majestic wood-fired oven from which competition-level Neapolitan pizzas emerge. So we opt for the Dancing Queen pizza (17€), a white base topped with fior di latte mozza, ricotta, herb-cured ham, taggiasche olives, button mushrooms, chives and basil; a very good choice, and always that fluffy, plump dough without being too elastic.

A glass of Italian wine from the cellar's 100 or so references, or a cocktail "as soon as you order, as soon as you serve" from the well-stocked menu, with a prevalence of spritzs- classic, virgin or bellini (€10; prosecco, white peach purée, raspberry).

For dessert, we'll have to pass, as the appetizer and pizza got the better of us. However, this tigramisu (8€) and banoffee pie (9€) were very appealing. A good reason to return to this institution that hasn't aged a day!

Please note that it's been over 4 years since our last visit, so the place and experience may have changed.

This test was conducted as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know.