Alice Arnoux at Perchoir Ménilmontant, an iodized, perched residence

After Tontine by Céline Pham, an unusual residency by Adrien Cachot and a vegetal residency by Manon Fleury, Le Perchoir Ménilmontant invites a new nomadic chef, Alice Arnoux, for six months. If you're not familiar with the name, this young chef from the Paris region is no stranger to the culinary scene, winning over novice palates and expert taste buds over the years.

Trained at the Paul Bocuse Institute, Alice Arnoux soon joined Alexandre Couillon's brigade, before flying to Denmark, joining the ranks of three-starred restaurant Noma in Copenhagen, then Birkemosegaard, an organic farm on the Sjællands Odde peninsula.

From then on, she cooked the offerings of land and sea to the rhythm of the seasons. In the years that followed, she kept to this line, taking up residencies at Fulgurances l'Adresse, Dame Jane, Rhézome and now Le Perchoir Ménilmontant.

As you climb the steps up to the 6th-floor restaurant, you move further away from sea level, yet step by step you approach a residence as perched as it is iodized, which puts the finest products of the sea at the center of the plate, without it being the most sought-after, distinguished or well-known dishes.

As usual at Le Perchoir, there's no menu to choose from, but a unique menu - adapted to food allergies, of course - priced at €85 for dinner Tuesday to Friday, and €65 for lunch on Saturdays.

The journey begins along the coast, with hand-caught Noirmoutier prawns, rose oil and fleur de sel; cockles, kumquat and daisy;sea almond with almond (from the almond tree, that one); a celery/cucumber/daikon mouthwash to slurp right onto the whelk; and whelks, precisely, with tarragon mayonnaise. And then black mullet sashimi, matured on site for all to see, with homemade, local wasabi (a blend of horseradish and black radish), preserved lemon gel and citrus leaf oil; and oysters with green juice and pulp, celery oil and Swiss chard.

Next, we head for the depths, with a sea-salad-style dish of smoked cod roe tarama, wild sprouts and buckwheat blinis; a pretty 7-day-aged mackerel, white asparagus, sorrel, scallop beard and coating beurre blanc ; before diverting to the shores of Japan with a chawanmushi, a steamed Japanese egg cream with cockles, mustard seeds and clear fish-bone broth.

The pre-dessert and subsequent courses are no exception to the iodine rule: pine panna cotta, pomelo granita, rose and spider crab, which could just as easily be served as an appetizer; matcha tea financier presented in an oyster shell that perfumes the creation with its scents; and dulce, hibiscus and trout roe bonbon, which will remind nostalgic diners of the Roudoudou of their childhood.