We've seen some funny ideas, but we have to admit that this is one of the most intriguing. This fall, chef Ohad Amzallag opened Guefen, his first Parisian restaurant in the Marais district, and his cuisine is "seasoned only with salt". It's enough to make us raise an eyebrow in astonishment and pique our curiosity.
After a remarkable stint at Shouk, a stone's throw from the Canal Saint-Martin, an Israeli restaurant that sublimated hummus, among other dishes - we even left there with the chef's personal recipe, such was their finesse that we were bowled over - Israeli chef Ohad Amzallag unveils Guefen.
The aim of this new restaurant is as simple as it is enticing: to surprise the Parisian gastronomic scene with a new kind of Levantine-inspired cuisine and innovative techniques. Within the walls of the restaurant, seafood asserts itself, sublimated by fermented vegetables and legumes, cooked according to Middle and Far Eastern methods, and seasoned with salt only. A surprising promise when you consider the importance of spices in Levantine cuisine!
Our verdict
When you enter Guefen, you're surprised to discover a large table in the middle of the room. Here, the emphasis is on conviviality and sharing, rather than solitary dining. That's the paradox of this restaurant, where customers feel right at home, even though they've come to sample an almost gourmet menu.
But first, we must warn our Jewish readers, Israeli chef does not mean the restaurant is kosher. Note that the dishes on the Sea & Gardens menu are almost all seafood-based. But if you give the restaurant at least 48 hours' notice, the sous-chef can adapt the menu by removing all seafood, and replacing it with fish - sea bass, essentially. Because yes, here, all cooked products are fresh.
Now that that's out of the way, get ready for a unique taste journey. Guefen's menu is full of surprises, and if you're not used to this style of cuisine, you'll be surprised, perhaps even bewildered. After all, the chef combines flavors and ingredients that you'd never expect to find together. Spinach yoghurt, brioche perdu sprinkled with raw tuna, garum cheesecake... Our preference goes to the brioche, which blew us away. If these few names make your mouth water, take a look at our photos of the dishes - we're willing to bet you'll be convinced!
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