Hakuba: we tested the exclusive Omakase experience at Cheval Blanc Paris, the Japanese restaurant

Cheval Blanc Paris already boasts several restaurants: Plénitude, the three-starred restaurant, Tout Paris, the brasserie with a breathtaking view, Langosteria for lovers of Italian cuisine and, more recently, Hakuba Paris, the Japanese restaurant. Located on the first floor of the hotel, Hakuba has taken the place of the former Limbar teahouse and bar, transformed into a sanctuary dedicated to Japanese cuisine.

The setting, designed by Peter Marino, combines noble materials such as black walnut, subtle lighting effects and symbolic elements reminiscent of the Japanese forest. This uncluttered, natural decor invites us to disconnect. On arrival, 3 islets reveal themselves to us like cocoon counters, each officiated by a chef. Chef Takuya Watanabe brings his expertise to all 3 spaces. With just a few seats and meticulous service, we feel like little fish in water.

Takuya Watanabe, already famous for his starred sushiya Jin Paris, has teamed up with Arnaud Donckele to create a genuine dialogue between their two worlds. Together, they orchestrate Omakase menus, where each dish embodies a moment of poetry and rigor. Omakase is a unique Japanese gastronomic experience, embodying the spirit of trust between chef and guest.

In Japanese, "omakase" literally means"I leave it to you", reflecting the total freedom given to the chef to compose a tailor-made tasting menu. Each meal is a surprise, carefully crafted according to the customer's limitations, seasonal produce and the chef's inspiration. This concept, deeply rooted in Japanese culinary tradition, is a veritable sensory voyage where each dish remains a mystery right up to its presentation. If you like the unexpected, then you'll love being surprised and tamed.

The laser-like precision of chef Takuya and his team, particularly in the cutting of fish and the mastery of shari (vinegared rice), is fascinating. Like a show, you're captivated by the different preparations served up to you as you taste. Each ingredient, carefully selected, tells a story: fish from the best European coasts and exceptional condiments such as vinegar from the Iio Jozo brewery.

The menu is made up of signature dishes that are all nods to Japanese culture. We start with an iodized broth accompanied by nori seaweed jam, followed by a series of sushi and sashimi, such as saba (young mackerel) served with tosazu jelly, or the spectacular Akami (red tuna). The mastery of flavors and textures completely won us over, with each piece designed to offer perfect harmony between fish and rice.

Speaking of rice, we were transported by its texture and taste. Each grain, perfectly seasoned with a homemade rice vinegar, stands out in the mouth for a perfect consistency. For this, the chef usesAkitacomachi, a grain native to Atika, grown in Spain in the southern tip of Catalonia, a rice that benefits from the water of the Ebro in the Pyrenees, reminiscent of Japanese water.

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Surprising and unusual, we loved the kaki-oyster sushi and its iodized power. TheTamago omelette, seasoned with anchovies and laser-fried, is incredibly delicate. The Japanese charcoal-grilled red mullet is as beautiful as it explodes in the mouth, and the temaki with caviar arrives as an apotheosis.

What better way to finish than with desserts from Maxime Frédéric. The pastry chef sublimates Japanese flavors by revisiting classics such as iced mochi. During our visit, we were able to taste his revisited Japanese version of rice pudding with crispy rice petals.

To accompany this gastronomic experience, sommelier Emmanuel Cadieu offers a fine selection of sakes and wines, in perfect harmony with the dishes. The sensory journey is complete and enhanced by attention to detail, right down to the art of the table, with tableware crafted by artisans from Kyoto and Fukuoka.

In short, as you can see, we've been amply seduced. As you can imagine, this table has to be earned and is in the high end of the price range. That said, it's an experience well worth the detour, to offer as a gift or to treat yourself to an exceptional moment. For these Omakase menus, available for lunch and dinner, expect to pay between €180 and €420, with exclusive dishes such as the Temaki caviar.

Ready to travel and be surprised?