La Traboule, a pocket bistronomic restaurant full of good ideas

La Traboule restaurant takes its name from a traboule, the Lyonnais term for a narrow passageway through the courtyards of buildings, but also from its pocket format, which allows 22 covers for lunch and dinner, no more, no less. Hence the importance of booking in advance, or, if you're unsuccessful, turning to the establishment's little brother, Comptoir de la Traboule, a stone's throw from the Eiffel Tower.

This sought-after restaurant in the Miromesnil district has everything to please, from its small terrace, which opens its doors on sunny days, to its open kitchen, where the brigade is busy as ever, and its attractive prices - which, it should be noted, are attractive for this corner of Paris, close to the Champs-Elysées, and above all for this quality.

Recently appointed head chef John Figueroa (former second-in-command at Substance, who also worked at the Michelin-starred Mavrommatis) humbly announces: while at lunchtime, the cuisine is bistronomic and changes daily, so as never to tire the hard-working locals, in the evening, the menu moves towards a more gastronomic and even more creative cuisine.

And yet, during our visit, there were many pleasant surprises and good ideas on the plate, even at lunchtime! With lunch menus available at €35 starter/main course or main course/dessert and €45 starter/main course/dessert, we savored melt-in-the-mouth gnocchi and oyster mushrooms under a saffron sabayon, and blue crab and butternut ravioli (€6) under a powerfully bitter coffee emulsion.

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Next up: cod back, cebette, broccoli and shrimp sauce - we've worked hard on the sauces and condiments, which bring a rock'n'roll touch to each dish - and sweetbreads (+7€), which already existed under former chef Fransesco Fezza, and whose recipe has been kept as is, zested with combawa.

A nice quenelle of black sesame ice cream to finish, turbinated on the spot, and we're off on new culinary adventures... With a promise to return to test the Traboule after dark!