Le Comptoir de la Traboule, bistronomic highlights and intoxicating vintages

If La Traboule had already won our hearts, the verdict's in: the same goes for its little brother (though much bigger than it!), Le Comptoir de la Traboule, a charming address in the 7th arrondissement that gracefully sets itself apart from the other eateries in the area.

While the Champ-de-Mars and Eiffel Tower area is renowned for its addresses for well-funded pocketbooks, Le Comptoir de la Traboule is a UFO in the landscape, with lunch options that are, to say the least, affordable.

Both a restaurant and a wine bar, this address offers pleasure and delectation for €22 for two plates, or €28 for three plates at lunchtime, to choose from two starters, two main courses and two desserts on the slate. And the cuisine is beautiful, straightforward, bistronomic but without fuss.

At the counter (the famous one that gives the place its name), on the high tables or on the large terrace that flaunts itself when the sun is out, chef Jun Cho whirls up hearty plates, served with gusto by a hard-working team.

Starting with a must-taste: l'oeuf (€6), a truly experiential and experimental work that consists of a spoonful of Sichuan pepper - reputed to anesthetize the taste buds - followed by a mousse of smoked haddock and a candied egg yolk, contained in a hollowed-out eggshell.

The rest is just as good: neat vitello tonnato (14€), unctuous Jerusalem artichoke velouté, perfect egg and Jerusalem artichoke chips (12€), gnocchi with sorrel velouté and smoked Greek yogurt (14€), beef fillet tataki topped with a crying Tiger sauce (17€), and even these peaches, the last of the season for sure, soaking in a verbena and Timut berry syrup (6€).

The other aspect of Comptoir de la Traboule is, of course, its wine cellar, located at the back of the counter and displaying its finest and most skilful beverages for all to see.

Carefully selected, the wines come from all four corners of France, with prices varying according to region of origin and appellation, as well as a handful of wines by the glass on the slate that vary from day to day.

• To be read
• La Traboule, a pocket bistronomic restaurant full of good ideas
• Paris wine bars and cellars, our top addresses
• Affordable bistronomic restaurants with lunch menus at €30 starter/main course/dessert

Like La Traboule, Comptoir de la Traboule is driven by a real desire to please, and this is undeniably evident in both the plate and the glass. A very good address to keep on your radar.

La Traboule, a pocket bistronomic restaurant full of good ideas
A pocket restaurant in Miromesnil, La Traboule has all the makings of a great restaurant: bistronomic cuisine full of good ideas that, come evening, veers towards gastro. [Read more]