Paris is a city that moves at 100 miles an hour, and yet, in the eye of the whirlwind of the Parisian train-train are confidential addresses, secrets of insiders who know the right spots to get away from the hustle and bustle for a few moments before returning to the effervescence of the capital. One of these hidden spots awaits us at Place de la Concorde, in the heart of a legendary palace: the Hôtel de Crillon.
In this place steeped in history, at the crossroads between the Jardin d'Hiver, l'Ecrin and Butterfly Pâtisserie , you'll find a warm, mischievous gourmet counter : Comestibles. Indoors, there are only a few seats, but when the weather's fine, this spot extends into the Hôtel de Crillon's second courtyard, a quiet, leafy, confidential terrace built around the skylight overlooking the spa.
Comestibles is the brainchild of Paul Pairet, renowned chef and member of the Top Chef jury. This is his second address within the hotel, as he is also behind the Nonos restaurant next door. For Comestibles, Paul Pairet is banking on generous, comforting gastronomy that plays on our guilty pleasures.
The menu is a return to basics, far from the fuss and vagaries of trends. The cuisine is timeless but far from boring, like an old friend you'd never want to lose sight of and whose reunion is always a celebration, all in a setting that's both elegant and friendly, where life is sweet.
Here, although we're in a palace, prices are diversified enough to suit different budgets. Hors d'oeuvres and salads are mostly priced between €12 and €22, while main courses are around €30. If some dishes seem simple, wait until you see them reinterpreted in the style of Paul Pairet.
For starters, leeks are a favorite. This grilled vegetable reveals a melt-in-the-mouth core that enhances the sweet notes and reminds us just how good nature can be. It is accompanied by a vinaigrette and whole hazelnuts whose roasted accents bring both character and crunch to this refreshing dish.
We also salute the unctuous tarama, well-balanced between its smokiness and sweetness. Of course, the mayo eggs are also part of the menu - after all, this menu is an ode to Parisians' guilty pleasures, and the party couldn't go on without this star of broths.
On certain days, it's also possible to find an octopus cooked with brio, with that melting texture that reveals a well-mastered revelation. But it's meat lovers above all who'll find what they're looking for at Comestibles, with meticulously concocted classics.
Whether you opt for a refreshing tartare or a mouth-watering onglet de boeuf, the meats, carefully selected, are prepared with respect for the product, and the richness of the taste stands on its own. As a side dish, if you don't answer the call of crispy fries, the grilled vegetables combined with the surrounding setting will remind you of the spirit of a garden party and barbecue among friends.
Finally, on the dessert side, this is an opportunity to (re)discover the expertise of Matthieu Carlin, the hotel's head pastry chef, through the creations on offer at Pâtisserie Butterfly, located right next door. If you find the choice difficult (understandably so), the team will be happy to advise you.
For our part, it was the raspberry verbena tart, whose aesthetics take us back to childhood with its punnet shape, and whose flavors highlight the natural taste of the fruit through this low-sugar creaminess with fresh notes. A fitting end to a tasting that marks a return to basics.
Dates and Opening Time
Starts December 17, 2024
Location
Hôtel de Crillon
10 place Concorde
75008 Paris 8