It's one of those intriguing addresses that arouses our curiosity and invites us to follow our instincts. As you walk along Rue de Montreuil, at number 51, a mysterious, wood-paneled sign reveals an anachronistic, vintage-style salon, where a number of antique pieces and decorations combine to create an unusual setting, reminiscent of a cabinet of curiosities. Beneath hanging bouquets of dried flowers, tables are laid. It's hard to resist the temptation to discover this strange address. Push open the door and it's as if you've stepped through the looking glass.
"I'm coming," we're warned from another room. Loulou, the master of the house, arrives. After working all over Paris, this experienced chef has settled in the capital's 11th arrondissement to open his own restaurant, Chez Loulou, a place in his image, offbeat and full of surprises. With warmth and no fuss, he invites us to settle in and chats with us in a natural, straightforward manner that contributes to the soul of the place. Throughout the evening, we discover a passionate chef with a strong character, who is also very attentive to his guests. And when one of them ventured to call him "Chef", he was immediately cut off: " Oh no, not Chef! I'm Loulou".
On the menu, presented on the slate, there's little choice. "You know why", says Loulou. Our host, who works alone in the dining room and kitchen, makes it a point of honor to offer homemade dishes, concocted from fresh, seasonal produce, and all for good value for money. For dinner, expect to pay €28 for a starter + main course + dessert, and €25 for a starter + main course or main course + dessert. The à la carte menu features traditional dishes mastered and twisted by Loulou's creative spirit.
To begin our tasting, our first choice is the oyster mushroom stew with poultry broth and port, one of the chef's recommendations. A comforting forest starter, generously garnished with mushrooms. We also let ourselves be tempted by the inspiration of the day, a goat's cheese moelleux. " It's a cold starter, but that's all I'm saying", we're told. Under its cloche, a snow rabbit reveals a creamy goat's cheese truffled with dried fruit and topped with a lemon sorbet. The whole thing awakens the taste buds with freshness. The contrast between these two plates sets the tone: Loulou has not finished surprising us.
Next, we're seduced by another of the chef's suggestions: "spoon-roasted lamb in melon". Served directly in the fruit, the melt-in-the-mouth meat matches the sweet flesh of the melon, enhanced by fresh mint notes. Another temptation is boneless rabbit leg braised in a "recipe from our grannies" style.
It's accompanied by lentils and a gourmet mashed potato that will remind us of the generosity and comfort of our grandmothers' cooking, and this time we won't have to insist on finishing our vegetables. As for the rich flavors preserved in the rabbit meat, they testify to slow, controlled cooking and a careful choice of raw materials.
We've had our fill and yet we're reluctant to leave Loulou's warm and friendly cocoon. So we decide to go further, and share the dessert. We glance at the slate. The brioche rôtie tout caramel is marked with three hearts: that's all we need to make our decision. The Loulou-style French toast, with its salted butter caramel and scoop of ice cream, ends our escapade on a regressive note. Then comes the dreaded moment of departure. We take one last look at the thousand and one sights around us, and move reluctantly towards the exit, promising ourselves we'll be back.
We'd particularly recommend this address to fans of traditional bistros and to the curious who are ready to let themselves be carried away by the spirit of discovery. The menu evolves according to the chef's inspirations and the seasonality of the produce, with Loulou also keen to ensure that he continues to guarantee the best possible value for money when drawing up his menu. During our visit, we were able to discover a rich, gourmet cuisine, albeit without any vegetarian options on the menu. Chez Loulou also offers two reservation slots per service, 12:00 - 12:30 for lunch and 19:00 - 19:30 for dinner. We strongly recommend that you call ahead to reserve your table!
Location
Chez Loulou Restaurant
51 Rue de Montreuil
75011 Paris 11
Access
Metro Rue des Boulets (line 9)
Prices
Entrée + Plat ou Plat + Dessert: €25
Entrée + Plat + Dessert: €28