What better feeling, now that the gray days have set in, than to walk through the door of a Parisian brasserie and feel instantly invaded by a sensation of warmth that makes you want to curl up on a comfortable banquette, put your feet under the table and wait to be served.
This is exactly what Miglia offers, a new address in the Place des Ternes district which, despite its location in this chic part of the capital - which some might find snobbish - proves to be particularly friendly and welcoming.
Warm from the moment you enter, with its décor in ochre, mustard and bronze tones by Madrid studio Hurlé & Martin - the place is particularly dapper. The service, too, is attentive. And then, of course, there's the food, with Transalpine recipes that have proven their generosity in the past - topped by Neapolitan-style pizzas (€13-27), puffed up to perfection; and pasta, some fresh, some dry.
Behind the stoves, two true Italian chefs return to the fundamentals of their original cuisine, prepared with French and transalpine products, in praise of simplicity. Examples include the lightly lemony ravioli di ricotta e spinaci with sage and parmesan cream (19€), or the flame-baked leeks (14€) topped with smoky stracciatella.
What can we say about this delicate Valdostana escalope (27€) with speck and mozzarella au gratin, accompanied by simple but not simplistic penne with cream and parmesan, or this slice of tiramisu (9€), spotted on the next table, which looked ready to soar with lightness. Why make things complicated when you can make them simple?
In the glass, the good vintages come from Sicily and Tuscany, and the cocktails range from Spritz in all its forms (11€-12€) to Italian-American mainstays (10€-13€), which you're happy to sip until the end of the night. And just in time: the address is open non-stop, from 11:30 a.m. until late at night.
Location
Miglia
233 bis Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré
75008 Paris 8
Official website
www.miglia.paris