He was a Top Chef 2020 candidate who made a lasting impression with his mischievous humor and friendliness. Mallory Gabsi, who since the culinary competition has been seen alongside Philippe Etchebest in the show Cauchemar en Cuisine, has opened his first restaurant in Paris, now awardeda star in the Michelin Guide.
After running a French fry shop in 2020 with another top chef, Adrien Cachot, the 24-year-old chef said of the opening: "I wanted to find a nice place for my first gastronomic restaurant, either in Brussels or in Paris. And I found one in Paris and I said to myself 'why not'. OK, I'm Belgian, but I'm 24 years old, and in Paris there are great chefs, competition. I'm going to Paris to do what I know how to do, with people I like working with."
So it's at 28 rue des Acacias in the 17th arrondissement, near the Arc de Triomphe and Place de l'Étoile, that the young prodigy and semi-finalist in season 11 of Top Chef is launching himself. This former student of Yves Mattagne (Sea Grill and La Villa Lorraine in Brussels) boldly revisits the classics of Belgian and international cuisine in a cosy setting.
One feels immediately at ease in this cozy atmosphere, a mix of materials between mineral stone, mahogany-like plane tree, large mirrors, marble and velvet. Seating is divided between guest tables facing the open kitchen, tables for two, or a large table in an alcove at the back, experiences designed to meet all the desires of customers - to see the kitchen brigade at work, or spend a more intimate moment.
From the amuse-bouche, eel in green, the chef revisits a Belgian classic as a nod to his origins. The flavors of tarragon, candied shallot and beer blend harmoniously in this traditional Ghent dish. As a starter, the snacked langoustine is sublimated by a hot consommé, a variety of raw tomatoes and brousse enhanced with shallot... divine!
A special mention for the food and wine pairings, surprising and prodigiously synchronized. Thus, the whole is accompanied here by a hot sake to reveal the umami of the langoustine and the tomato.
The main course, which pays homage to Mallory's grandmother with a beef cheek stew, cooked for 48 hours at low temperature with brown beer, candied onions and herbs, is a real treat. The traditional mashed potatoes give way to a very light siphon, while a gingerbread opaline tops the dish, sprinkled with mustard powder. Sublime!
The pigeon, cooked on a low heat chest and served with a fermented black bean condiment, surprises with its simplicity and power. The chef celebrates the sauces by magnifying them, marrying them to a brick leaf tube stuffed with giblets and flavored with a blend of Syrian spices.
The "fallen" strawberry dessert delights the taste buds with its play of textures and flavors. Milk ice cream, pine nuts, wild strawberries, honey-olive oil sabayon and tagetes blend together in an explosion of hot/cold, acidity and sweetness.
Lovers of gastronomic emotion, be ready to enter the intimate universe of the chef, a personally tasty story.
Dates and Opening Time
Starts March 5, 2022
Location
Mallory Gabsi's restaurant
28 Rue des Acacias
75017 Paris 17
Official website
mallory-gabsi.com
Booking
mallory-gabsi.com
