Are you hanging around the 18th arrondissement in Paris, near Montmartre, looking for a good bistro with fresh, gourmet dishes? Then it's time to stop off at 14 rue Ferdinand Flocon. Fana is the name given by Gabriel Gras Fernandez and Jorice Sardain to this new gourmet spot. A journey through Michelin-starred restaurants and big-name names, good seasonal produce, all within easy reach, that's all it takes for us to sit down on the terrace.
When you arrive on the street, you're already seduced by the setting. A street closed to cars, giving way to strollers and families, and a direct view of the Sacré Coeur, it's enough to make you want to take it easy. The restaurant, whose bay window opens on sunny days, reveals a modern dining room where bricks, stone walls, large benches and wooden tables form the decor.
This bistro is the brainchild of two friends, two young chefs who are already well seasoned. Gabriel Gras Fernandez is in charge of the savoury side. After an apprenticeship with Michel Sarran and Jean-Pierre Vigato, he joined the kitchens of Christian Le Squer (Pavillon Ledoyen) and Philippe Bellissent (Cobea). He then became head chef of a canteen at Christian Etchebest 's troquet, before moving on to the Bistrot du 11 in Versailles, where he met his new partner, Jorice Sardain, a former Le Meurice chef who worked with Cédric Grolet and is now in charge of sweet dishes at Fana.
Their leitmotiv is seasonality, good produce and sustainable fishing. A lovely program. As you can imagine, the menu changes according to the market, so here's what we discovered when we visited at the start of summer.
We start with Xistora with Espelette chilli pepper to share. This subtly spiced Basque charcuterie is accompanied by a savora condiment and watercress, which adds a touch of freshness and a slight acidity that perfectly balances the spiciness of the pepper. It's a lovely plate, and a good time is had by all. Accompany it with iced tea or homemade kombucha, and you're in business.
Starters include marinated tuna with horseradish, kohlrabi and beet sauce, and a perfect egg with agria, farmhouse ventrèche and croutons. The plates are beautifully presented. We'd have liked a little more lamb's lettuce and pep, but the freshness is there.
For main courses, the inshore fishery proves to be an attractive choice. The fish, impeccably fresh, is served with pointed cabbage and fennel, enhanced by a lemon sauce that adds a welcome touch of acidity. The roasted cauliflower with radish, hazelnut, black sesame and buckwheat cream is a nice touch and should delight vegetarians.
One of the highlights of this restaurant is Jorice Sardain's delicious desserts. We're completely smitten with the Paris-Brest, topped with IGP Piedmont hazelnut praline and accompanied by a crème anglaise. A crispy chou, a decadent praline and a creamy custard, this is a real winner. We also fell for the pretty strawberry tart with vanilla cream and chantilly, to share.
For the bill, expect to pay €29 for starter + main course or main course + dessert, and €36 for the total, starter, main course and dessert. Good value for money, given the sourcing and quality of the produce. How about a nice bistro in the 18th arrondissement?
Dates and Opening Time
From July 2, 2024 to December 31, 2027
Official website
www.fanabistro.fr
Instagram page
@fana.bistro
Booking
www.fanabistro.fr
