Brion, Geoffrey Lengagne's seasonal market cuisine with bistronomic accents

After working alongside Michelin-starred chef Mathieu Viannay and multi-starred chef Pierre Gagnaire, chef Geoffrey Lengagne is embarking on a solo adventure with the opening of his own restaurant in Paris's 9th arrondissement . Also a graduate of La Réserve Hôtel & Spa, the chef was also able to showcase his many talents last spring during a several-month residency at Les Petites Mains, the Palais Galliera's summer terrace, alongside François Daubinet.

Committed to the defense of micro-seasonality, Geoffrey Lengagne unveils at Brion, his very first restaurant, market cuisine at lunchtime through rather affordable menus. Expect to pay €36 for a starter/main course/dessert, or €49 for a four-step menu, all prepared with perfectly sourced produce.

For dinner, the menu features gastronomic accents , with an emphasis on seafood and a four-step tasting menu, priced at €74. In the glasses, with the same dedication to the good and the beautiful, the wines are organic and natural, while the local wines, also represented, come mainly from Rhône-Alpes, a region dear to the chef's heart.

At the time of our visit, the first green asparagus of the season (19€) was paired with grilled mackerel and smoked ricotta, while our favorite, roasted celery (18€), was drenched in pistachio sabayon, topped with Savoy tomme and an exotic xo sauce; the fish plays the land-sea game with snails, green curry rice and green asparagus (34€); while the plump ravioli welcomes cod and Basque octopus into its belly (27€).

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And to finish off this bistronomic lunch, we fall for (and would gladly go back for) the cannolo with rhubarb, candied citrus, mezcal granita and ancho chilli (15€), which takes us on a trip to Mexico!