Onyx, refined French bistronomy a stone's throw from department stores

Between two shopping sprees at Galeries Lafayette or Printemps Haussmann, you can now stop off at Onyx, a bistronomic table recently opened by the Marki & co group - already behind Sphère, Shiro, Ao Izakaya and TO.

As soon as you enter the restaurant, you'll be impressed by the decor, designed by the Anegil architectural duo, and particularly by the 4-metre-high onyx wall that gives the restaurant its name and covers an entire section of the building, from floor to ceiling. Backlit, it gracefully reveals the veins of theagate.

Behind the kitchen counter, chef Benjamin Marotine, who has worked at Thoumieux, Les Ombres and Spoon, imagines a French cuisine with gastronomic accents, inspired by the cultures he has encountered on his travels, such as Cambodia.

At lunchtime, the lunch menu focuses more on Franco-French creations at fairly reasonable prices for the area: €35 for a starter/main course or main course/dessert, €42 for a starter/main course/dessert, although you can only choose from dishes marked with an asterisk. All the dishes tested in this article are included in the aforementioned lunch menu.

At the start of the winter season, you'll find a turnip velouté (16€) topped with a watercress coulis, veal breast confit and buttery croutons, or a haddock brandade (18€), less well-known than its cod cousin, with steamed kale, capers and saffron-flavored pommes grenaille, just to get you started.

The fish of the day (29€), for its part, is surrounded by a declination of carrots (creamed, reduced and baby carrots) and ginger, while the beef chuck (29€), mashed potatoes and roasted salsify, delights with its tenderness and candied aspect.

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• Affordable bistronomic restaurants with lunch menus at €30 starter/main course/dessert

While the Paris-Brest and the signature 1000 feuilles with toasted vanilla, caramel and Tonka bean have already won the hearts of sweet tooths, the basboussa (15€), a semolina cake that exists in a multitude of variations in Greece, Turkey and Lebanon, is adorned here with a citrus confit and syrup, a mandarin sorbet, an orange blossom syphon and an orange blossom sauce, Turkey and Lebanon, is adorned here with a citrus confit and syrup, a mandarin sorbet, an orange blossom syphon and toasted flaked almonds, to finish on a light, low-sugar note.