A charming new address has opened its doors on the equally sparkling Place Sainte-Marthe, nestled not far from the Canal Saint-Martin, taking the place of an address that had won us over in the past, Le Galopin. Forget the former stronghold of chef Julien Simonnet, and make way for Ajar.
Behind Ajar are Ruben Curiel and Sophie Marie Larrouy, who have placed young chefs Cassandre Beguin Billecocq and Camille Bacou in the kitchen. With the idea that "everything tastes better in a tortilla", the former journalist now converted to the restaurant business has imagined a new kind of bistro, reinterpreting the taco in a Parisian version.
And so it is that in this uncluttered, luminous space, the work ofAdrien Ragon, cornflour tortillas from Mexico reveal their finest assets, topped with ingredients selected as locally as possible. Marrow bone, rhubarb and celery; sardine, horseradish and granny apple; lacquered eggplant, tahini sauce and kohlrabi pickles; unusual combinations are the order of the day.
However, when we visited - just before the festive season - we were offered a single menu, comprising two starters, a main course and a dessert. And what great ideas there were in this menu at an unbeatable price(€30!), starting with the two starters, a very naughty Mont d'Or gougère topped with sautéed mushrooms, and a very delicate tartare of scallops, spiked with verbena mayonnaise.
Next comes a stunning stuffed guinea fowl with a bevy of chestnuts, arranged on a medallion of roasted celeriac, followed by a pavlova with chestnut and kumquat cream, a little chiche but a success. At this price, you'll want more. Another favorite is the pickled spritz (€12), made with gherkin juice. A must-taste for those who don't want to discover the restaurant's selection of natural wines.
In the evening, à la carte dishes (€6-€18) get even sassier, like deer shank with binchotan, chicken skin sundae (!) or arugula sorbet.
A toast to Ajar!
Location
Ajar
34 Rue Sainte-Marthe
75010 Paris 10
Official website
www.instagram.com
