GrandCœur, the Paris address of Michelin-starred chef Mauro Colagreco and his bourgeois cuisine

At the end of a charming cobbled courtyard, that of the Centre de danse du Marais, stands GrandCœur, the Parisian address of three-starred chef Mauro Colagreco. The stars may not be on the menu here, but the pleasure is no less for the eyes and the taste buds.

GrandCœur warmly welcomes guests to its historic setting , perfect for autumnal gatherings. With its high ceilings, exposed stonework and century-old beams, cast-iron radiators turned on as soon as winter sets in, marble tables, pitted mirrors and bay windows opening onto the large terrace - sunny in summer, covered in winter- this is an address that seems to have stepped straight out of time.

Comfortably curled up on a royal-blue velvet banquette, we discover a menu that gives pride of place to the great classics of French cuisine, and more particularly bourgeois cuisine. Like the crab, celery, green apple and dill remoulade(23€), which may seem out of step with the season, but turns out to be particularly light - just what we needed, given the dishes we chose for the rest of our lunch.

Because right now, until the warm weather arrives - around mid-March - there's one dish you can't afford to miss at GrandCœur: pot-au-feu. A symbol of family conviviality and the genuine pleasure of sharing with friends, GrandCœur's pot-au-feu is the ultimate comfort food. Dating back to medieval times, pot-au-feu fed peasant families for days on end!

Mauro Colagreco's pot-au-feu is priced at €45 per person, served for a single guest or for the whole table - up to 8 people. It's impossible for a Michelin-starred chef to offer a simple pot-au-feu. That's why at GrandCœur, the pot-au-feu is offered in two courses. The first is a consommé with vermicelli served in a pretty soup plate with old-fashioned charm, accompanied by a large marrow bone with garlic and rosemary toast. A good start.

Then it's time for the second course, with the pot-au-feu itself, served (very) generously in a scorching cast-iron casserole, placed directly on the table, just like at home. The beef is infinitely tender, some pieces almost candied from their long simmering, and for the original twist we could only hope for from Chef Colagreco, the dish is accompanied by a variety of sauces and condiments - including a green parsley sauce and vegetable pickles.

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Served for one person, the pot-au-feu could easily have satisfied two. The lamb confit (35€) is also served generously, accompanied by sweet potato, dates and a black sesame sauce that brilliantly navigates the sweet-savory and umami realms. Suffice to say, we had no room left for dessert - and that's a shame.

The name says it all: GrandCœur is an address with a big heart.