Chimère, a contemporary and stylish brasserie in Opéra

Just a stone's throw from theOpéra Garnier, the Chimère brasserie plunges us into a chic, hushed atmosphere reminiscent of the most beautiful 70's Mad Men settings, minus the wisps of cigarette smoke. From the outset, this neo-brasserie, which has just opened its doors in this lively district of the capital, is captivating in its beauty.

Brick-colored velvet banquettes, an imposing central bar with silver curves, high chairs with Savannah motifs, numerous mirrors that enlarge the room while reflecting daylight, wool carpeting and vintage objects nonchalantly placed on lacquered consoles: the meticulous monochrome decor is the work of Necchi Architecture, whose inspirations range from François Catroux to the film American Gigolo.

Behind this more intimate brasserie is the team behind Comptoir des Petits Champs, a French bistro and wine cellar nestled, as its name suggests, on the rue des Petits Champs. Behind the stoves, Cédric Saint-Marc decided to turn his pipe dream into reality and succumb to the siren song, leaving his job as a notary for the restaurant business. And it seems clear that this notary-turned-self-trained chef made the right choice.

In the kitchen, he executes a bistro-style cuisine that reinvents the codes, using seasonal produce carefully sourced directly from producers. It's hardly surprising, then, that some of the cheeses and charcuterie (8€-14€) can be enjoyed in their simplest form as a preamble, to brighten up the start of a meal.

Alongside them are Canut brains and grilled ears, fried Camembert (13€) in the form of finger-food croquettes, and leek vinaigrette (9€) topped with almonds, roasted pistachios and a dollop of raw cream. Small plates are matched by large ones, such as this lamb parmentier - the dish of the day - or this melting beef cheek, parsnip and parmesan (25€).

Chimère 's originality also lies in its choice of cooking methods: the fragrant and enveloping "à la braise " method, which gives the same treatment to vegetables (such as the aforementioned leeks) as it does to meat. To calm the fire, we opt for a glass of clean wine, either natural or biodynamic - but some bottles don't bend to this diktat - or a cocktail.

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And for dessert, it's always Cédric Saint-Marc's turn, with this vanilla crème brûlée (9€) conscientiously caramelized or this basil cheesecake (10€), lightened with fresh passion fruit to spill.

A new table as naughty as it is coquettish.