Lovers of Japanese cuisine have no shortage of good addresses in Paris. For several years now, the capital has been home to some excellent Japanese restaurants, whether you're a fan of ramen, sushi or gyozas. This autumn, a new address dedicated to Japanese gastronomy has been added to the list. The name? Onii-San, which has opened its doors in the 3rd arrondissement.
Described as an"intimate, subdued and festive place to live", this new establishment is inspired by several concepts born in Tokyo and Los Angeles. Arthur Cohen, Olivier Léone and chef Isaac Romero (ex-Holiday Café) are behind the restaurant, with its raw, graphic design and occasional play on Japanese kitsch codes. All three are passionate about Japanese culture, and wanted to bring"the friendly, frenetic, offbeat atmosphere of Tokyo'sizakayas " to Paris, offering modern, ultra-gourmet cuisine.
In the kitchen, talented Chef Isaac Romero, accompanied for the occasion by sous-chef Risa Ichimaru (originally from Tokyo and ex-chef at Abri Soba), has devised a cutting-edge menu based on Japanese specialties. But be warned: no sushi or ramen here, butauthentic recipes revisited, starting with the famous and creative Izakayas tapas.
A la carte? Shiitake just sautéed and caramelized in sake, but also a soy-marinated runny egg nestled under a white sesame cream or a generous plate of razor clams, sublimated by sake,garlic and soy. A perfect appetizer to start the tasting, before moving on to the excellent and surprising avocado den gaku, with its egg yolk delicately slipped inside, topped with caramelized miso, pecans and nori. A delicious and original success!
But our favorite is the memorable fatty tuna tartare, incredibly melting, with a delicious wasabi cream, and ponzu-yuzu-jalapeno, trout roe, and slices of Hokkaido milk bread.
And what about Onii-San' s famous signature wagyu sando (from Australia)? If you've never tasted this beef, then this is the perfect opportunity to savor this rare quality meat. For true carnivores, you can also opt for the 100g plate of wagyu!
Another Onii-San specialty? The temaki " hand roll ", available in vegetarian, samon, fatty tuna or crab and mayonnaise versions.
And to accompany these Japanese specialties, what could be better than a fine selection of sakes? Don't hesitate to ask for advice on the perfect pairing. The restaurant also offers highballs (whisky-based long drinks) and white wine.
Finally, did you think we were going to leave without tasting the desserts? Well, you don't know us very well. Onii-San keeps things simple but effective, with sweet specialties that are typically French but with a Japanese twist. On the one hand, we fell for the (real) chocolate fondant (gluten-free), topped with matcha powder, and on the other, a delicious black sesame tarte tatin. Two generous, ultra-gourmet desserts for maximum pleasure. For smaller appetites, Onii-San also offers ice creams with green tea, ginger or black sesame.
So, would you like to discover Onii-San? A word of advice: get there before it becomes the new izakaya in Paris's Marais district.
Alcohol abuse is dangerous for your health. Drink in moderation.
Please note that it's been over 4 years since our last visit, so the place and experience may have changed.
Dates and Opening Time
Starts September 7, 2020
Location
Onii-San
82 Rue des Archives
75003 Paris 3
Prices
Handrolls - à partir de: €6
Assiettes - à partir de: €10
Menu déjeuner: €20
Official website
www.onii-san.fr
Booking
www.onii-san.fr
01 45 35 14 60
More information
Open Tuesday to Saturday, 12 to 2pm and 7 to 11pm