Bombance, the Marais' finest bistronomic discovery

Bombance, a bistronomic restaurant tucked away on rue des Blancs Manteaux, in the heart of the Marais district, is all about mischief and mischief. Behind its water-green frontage with large bay windows are three accomplices: Louis and Paul in the dining room, accompanied by Guillaume, the chef who has worked in gastronomic and Michelin-starred restaurants - Le Grand Véfour, Le Lancaster, La Régalade. The latter two met on the benches of Ferrandi. We jump at the door.

The address immediately appealed to us. The message is clear: seasonal, regional cuisine, local produce sourced as close as possible to the producers, affordable lunch menus (€24 starter/main course/dessert, €28 full menu), and a short menu that changes frequently.

And it's a tempting menu, alternating great French classics (a stunning pâté en croûte of sweetbreads, porcini mushrooms and foie gras; 16€) with an ode to vegetarianism in all its splendor (this variegated vegetarian plate, made up of an assortment of vegetables and pickles in a thousand and one ways; 18€).

Offal is also on the menu, as with this diabolical pressé of pig's trotters and salad of vinegared red cabbage (14€), or this sweetbread, the signature dish of the place (42€), all generosity, with morels, morels and yellow wine sauce and potato millefeuilles. A dish that makes us forget summer and rediscover the flavors of autumn, just like the mirabelle plum crumble, the last of the season.

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When it comes to beverages, the emphasis is on French wines with a natural bent, but not only. It sounds just right, like the rest. A wonderful discovery that leaves you smiling.