Mido Paris, the fine nikkei restaurant at the Intercontinental Paris Champs-Élysées-Étoile

Published by Manon de Sortiraparis · Photos by Manon de Sortiraparis · Published on September 25, 2024 at 09:03 p.m.
The Intercontinental Paris Champs-Élysées-Étoile unveils its restaurant, a nikkei table called Mido Paris. As connoisseurs will have gathered, this is the little sister of a cult address on the Riviera. So, what's the verdict?

In the heart of theInterContinental Paris Champs-Élysées Etoile, a stone's throw from the Champs-Elysées, the La Môme group - which has been operating on the Côte d'Azur for the past decade - is bringing its nikkei concept to Paris, with the opening of a new restaurant, Mido Paris, on the first floor of the5-star hotel.

Founded by two brothers from Lyon, Ugo and Antoine, the group has made a name for itself with the opening of several establishments in Cannes, Saint-Tropez and Monaco, including the famous Mido, and is now tackling another big project: importing its nikkei restaurant to Paris, where addresses of this kind already exist. A risky gamble, but a successful one?

Mido Paris - DécorationMido Paris - DécorationMido Paris - DécorationMido Paris - Décoration

Head to theInterContinental Paris Champs-Élysées Etoile for a meeting between two gastronomies that are so far apart, yet so complementary: Japanese and Peruvian cuisine , where techniques, dishes and flavors are combined to create the fusion cuisine that is Nikkei.

Whether in the cosy interior of velvet, sea-green marble and brass fixtures, or under theimmense glass roof, which is sunny in summer and veiled in winter - the decor is particularly tasteful - Mido Paris unveils a world-focused menu, between land and sea, created by Christopher Brugnaux.

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The chef's idea was to start with a high-quality product such as otoro (the famous wagyu from the sea), tuna ventresca or wagyu beef, and to work with it in different ways depending on the season. Raw in nakaochi-style tartare, in tiradito or ceviche, or barbecued over vegetable charcoal and cherry wood. The Robata, a grill in the purest Japanese tradition, makes it a point of honor to sublimate meat, fish and shellfish.

Sushi, sashimi, nigiri, gunkan, maki and rolls are all part of the festivities, for a farandole of flavors and colors, just like in the glasses where original, made-to-measure cocktails like this stunning Mido Spritz (Saint-Germain, sake, grapefruit soda; 20€) or Who Killed Paloma? (mezcal, sake, grapefruit juice, lemon juice, spiced syrup, grapefruit soda, wababi; €20).

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A quick review of the marvels we tasted during our visit: an unstoppable miso soup (12€), but of the highest quality (radically different from the bland broth of basic Japanese caterers); a large handful ofedamame (13€) to dip in a spicy sauce; a tangy spinach salad (19€), topped with parmesan and fried leek rootlets; sweet potato tempura (23€) and crispy shrimp tempura (28€) dipped in a spicy aioli sauce; or a stunning teriyaki miso salmon (29€) generously served and perfectly caramelized.

Then it's on to the finest dishes in their simplest form, like this pair of salmon sushi (11€), which passes the classic test with flying colors (it's like the margherita of any Italian restaurant); and the black cod rolls (29€ for 8 pieces), which require no addition of soy sauce because they're so delicate (and accompanied by real pickled ginger and real wasabi that packs a punch).

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Then, to the delight of both taste buds and eyes, comes a selection of tiraditos - the Peruvian equivalent of sashimi - allowing the brigade to demonstrate their skill and grace in creating sauces, condiments and broths that are all very different, all very successful. Amberjack and osaka sauce (28€), otoro and jalapenos salsa (33€), salmon and miso broth (26€)... It's sharp, chiselled, balanced and delicate.

Practical information

Location

64 Avenue Marceau
75008 Paris 8

Route planner

Official website
www.midoparis.com

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