Both a neighborhood restaurant and a friendly bistro, Bonhomme and its ambient bonhomie won us over when it opened just over two years ago. Now, the same band of friends is back at it again, opening a second address, this time in the capital's 9th arrondissement.
Named Dame, this new restaurant follows the same precepts as Bonhomme: simple French cuisine with a bistronomic accent, and good wines to accompany the dishes, all at prices that are, to say the least, affordable. For lunch, expect to pay €22 for a starter/main course or main course/dessert, and €26 for a starter/main course/dessert. Very nice!
The menu is clear, with a choice of two starters, two main courses, one cheese and one dessert. At the time of our visit, these were excellent grilled leeks with a gribiche sauce and carefully buttered croutons; duck breast, pink to perfection, with potato mousseline and quince condiment; a neat mushroom tartlet with fennel salad and beet; and a poached pear with caramel crème montée and roasted hazelnuts.
Relying on the panache of his condiments, juices and sauces to coat and magnify everything, chef Matthieu Charriaud succeeds in combining beauty and goodness at an unbeatable quality/quantity/price ratio.
When it comes to dining, the address reveals an even more convivial face, with a menu that moves away from the traditional triptych of starter, main course and dessert. The menu is divided into two parts: hot and cold dishes, in portions for 1, 2 or 4 people. The dishes are served in large plates in the center of the table, so that you can help yourself as if you were at home - and also to break the wearying trend of the ever-present small plate.
If the food is sourced exclusively from France, or even locally, so too is the wine, sourced from the four corners of France, with a menu of over 120 references that honors organic and biodynamic vineyards. Cocktails are also on the menu, with 5 classics including the Penicillin cocktail (Mezcal, ginger beer, lime, whisky; €18).
But Dame isn't just a copy-and-paste of Bonhomme. This time, the team has opted for a retro ambience that takes us back to the 70s. Led by Atelier Etude, the set design is all curves and warm tones, and depending on the time of day, invites you to curl up... or dance!
The venue features a Mitsubishi turntable dating from 1964, mounted vertically on the wall, and two seventies Kef speakers that play a funky, pop and groovy selection.
Handpicked by debonair room manager Guillaume Halconruy, who trained in sound engineering at the Abbey Road Institute, the vinyl takes us back to a time when everything seemed simpler, and helps make Dame a restaurant where you simply feel good.
